in normal coordinates at $x=0$ you
have: $g_{\mu\nu}(x) = \eta_{\mu\nu} + \frac{1}{3}R_{\mu\nu\rho\sigma}x^\rho x^\sigma + \mathcal{O}(x^3)$, i.e. the measure of how much locally inertial coordinates are
not "coordinates in which the metric is constant" is exactly the curvature!