@JRE Could you run a waveform simulation on a connection via 2 seperate outlets to get 240-250 VAC RMS?
@JRE 2 circuits. Both 123 VAC RMS. I want to connect the earth ground (neutral) wire to another earth ground wire. Then a black (live or positive) wire to another positive. I'll draw a circuit diagram to help.
@JRE Here is the circuit diagram.
@JRE I know the earthed ground wire is connected to the negative cycle or side of the sine waveform. So the neutral is the ground wire. Which means they are at a zero potential. So I'm taking advantage of that. I'm taking the neutral/grounded wire as a ground wire. Then using the 2 same phases on the hot or positive wires to power the 20 Amp 240-250 volt outlet.
@JRE My theoretical educated guess says it'll work, but a part of me says it may skip a cycle. Will it slip a cycle?
@JRE The separate neutral wire is never connected. Just the ground/neutral and the hot (positive) wire are connected.
@ScientistSmithYT There's not much point in a "waveform simulation." If the two outlets are really on separate circuits (completely unrelated to each other,) then there's no telling how the phases are related. Anything from "boom" when you connect the neutrals to "works like you imagined" is possible
If you need 230VAC, then go back to the fuse box. If you have 120VAC , then there's 230VAC available in the fuse box. An electrician can run a line and install a proper outlet for you.
Oh. If you do manage to connect two 120VAC outlets to get 240VAC, then do NOT use a 120VAC outlet to plug your devices into the 240VAC. Get proper 240VAC outlet and matching plug. That'll save you from accidentally feeding 240VAC to a device that only expects 120VAC.
@JRE Ok Thank you. I am well aware of the typical split phase power. If I ended up doing the 240 V I would use a 20 amp 240-250 V locking outlet and locking male and female extension connectors.
@JRE The fuse box is a sub panel. The main fuse box is in the house. I have a sub box connected to the 240-250 V input from the house. So everything is technically on 1 system. But they are on seperate circuits.
@JRE The 240 Volts is needed to power 3 modified MOT's. The voltage will drop by 86. Once the 20 amp circuits are figured out, then I'll move to a 30 to use for my final connection. I need the higher voltage because the voltage drop will be too low to safely run anything.
The 86 volt drop is the minimal I have calculated, the worst is 103 volts. Either way if we did the math on a 123 volt RMS outlet, nothing would run safely or very well. Drills, machines and table saws would run very hot.
okay, well i suppose to put it very shortly, its kind of like "is it possible to create an accurate gps tracker utilizing these devices i already have?"
and I just figured with smartphones, the reason why the location tracking on those are good because it utilizes both gps and cell tower info and thats why you can get sort of a 2 meter radius discrepency
i just thought "what if i took this cell phone and some how combined its components with these gps trackers"
oh that is an interesting question, well i suppose i dont really know. other than the fact that it just either kept jumping around an area
or it just loses signal completely, and they couldn't seem to utilize cell tower information very well, despite both of the trackers needs a sim card to send the data
i took photos of the two gps tracker's components if that helps. i haven't been able to open up the phone since its screws looks like a weird bit...
OK. There's no reason why a GPS tracker would use the cellphone data at all. GPS receivers are usually stand alone modules. The cellphone part usually just passes requests through to the GPS receiver and sends the data back to the asker - or just periodically ask the receiver for data and sends to be collected.
You'll not be electrically combining the trackers and your cell phone. Not that it is totally impossible, but this is one of those "if you have to ask how then you don't have the skills to do it" things.
huh... well i know at least for one of these trackers if the gps fails the site i used to track would usually say something like "Unable to locata via gps, retreiving location via GSM" or something like that
essentially, the end goal is me trying to figure out if i can create my own gps tracker that is small enough to fit somewhere inconspicuously on a bicycle
oh i understand for GPS it's fine, but then i asked myself "well then how come my iphone can track my location so much better?". and when i looked this up it was apparently a combination of gps and other data
And, "inconspicuous" often translates as "under something," which is bad for GPS. The receiver antenna needs a clear line of sight to the sky. Nothing above it, and the antenna itself facing up.
but i think logging is okay too so long as i can just deliver that kind of info to authorities (or i try to confront the thief after the bike is stolen)
yes, my understanding of an idea envrionment of GPS trackers is that there is nothing around it
and that there are no clouds or something in the sky
so inside buildings and what not would totally ruin the accuracy of it
Clouds aren't a problem (unless it's from a hurricane or monsoon.)
Your iPhone probably also uses wifi as well as cellphone data and GPS, and combines all three together with motion detection. So, you'll be looking for a very advanced (expensive) tracker that can do all of those things.
There are programs that you can install on a smartphone to make them into trackers. You won't be combining components from a smartphone to do all of that. The combining is done in software.
Anything you can build at home will have to be larger. The inside of smartphone is pretty nearly full - no empty space. Anything you build at home will not be optimized for small size. It'll be optimized for having to build it by hand with human sized tools.
Yep. Pretty much any smartphone will have the sensors you need. Then you need a database of wifi hotspots, and access to the celltower data. GPS of course. Motion detection. A Kallmann filter in software to fuse all the different inputs to final location value.
I think the location services on Android phones does all of that already. You ask the phone for the location rather than reading the GPS data directly.
The development software for Android is freely available. Apple may be available for free as well. I don't know. Android does have a larger developer pool (more people working with it,) though, so you'll find more help on the internet for Android.
Yes. Just an app that runs as a background service, and constantly sends its location to you or some server that you operate. You could make it constantly send its location, or send its location on request.
There might well be an app available that does just what you need.
Bluetooth Key Finders, such as Tile or this $20 one would be a lot easier, functionally: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Finder-Keychain-Tracker-Keys/dp/B01CMJ6GNG
Most bike locks will do fine. If you want higher end, use a U-lock. If you want the best of the best, use Forever Lock. (One video of a guy seems to have picked it, but his work hasn't been replicated. I think he tried some wonky impressioning technique, but no one will go that far to pick a lock anyway.)
@JRE Sorry, but I do understand the behaviour of split phase electricity. I should have made that more clear. And that's no excuse to not have this type of question.
@ScientistSmithYT If you understand split phase, then the answer is obvious. If you have to ask the question, then you don't understand as well as you think you do.
@JRE Well the answer was obvious until I thought about other possibilities as to where it might not work very well. I also thought I made that very clear. That's why I questioned it in the first place.
@JRE I don't just jump on something right away just because I found a way something works without second guessing it. That is stupid and is asking for trouble. A lot of people do that these days and it isn't a good habit.
@JRE Since we can't do a waveform analysis. And I have other people I can talk to about this. I'll call it quits for now.
@ScientistSmithYT Buy two of these. That's a 120VAC to 24VAC center tapped transformer.
Connect bannana jacks to the three output wires. Attach a 120VAC plug and cable to the primary. Put each transformer in its own insulated box with the banana jacks outside.
You now have two models of a split phase residential system that you can play with without killing yourself. First task: understand why it accurately represents a residential split phase system
Second task: Arrange the secondaries so that you get 48 VAC.
Third task: Unplug one transformer from the outlet, and flip it 180 degtees and plug it back in. What happened to your 48VAC?
Get out your oscilloscope. Observe the voltages. Use a two channel scope, and observe the two hots on one transformer. Observe the hot versus the neutral on one transformer. Obseve the neutrals from both against each other.
That should teach you a lot of stuff you need to understand before you start cross connecting outlets.
You ought to be scared spitless when you consider intentionally connecting something to your outlets, and you expect it to cause the line voltage to dropby 86 volts.
@ScientistSmithYT You don't need a "waveform analysis." You need a "wait, WTF?" moment before you start doing this stuff.
And, I have no idea where you get the concept of a "skip" when you hook two outlets in series.
Haven't we been through this before? I seem to remember you claiming to have successfully connected two outlets in series and not understanding why everyone says not to do something you did "so easily."
We had a band practice in a basement years ago. Someone ran a power cord from the other side of the basement to the mixer. When a patch cord was connected between the mixer and my amp.... BZZZZT! Destroyed the amp. It is still sitting in pieces (replacing class A/B amp with class D, a project I'll never have enough time to finish.)
@JRE Well I got a waveform analysis from my friend and it turns out that the sine waves are not matching up perfectly. And at one point they skip a cycle. So it won't work. And seriously all of that work just to not prove a point??? ... Hmmm. And actually no, I did need a waveform analysis. Because it gave me the answers to the questions I have way faster than what you have described.
@JRE I'm not scared spitless. But maybe people that arent experienced would be scared spitless.
@JRE And I am well aware of how split phase works. It come to no suprise to me. It all goes down to the smallest of basics.
I am doing repairs on a monitor of mine and I have to replace a thermistor. I cannot quite read the values of the thermistor on the schematic for the monitor. Can someone see the image and help me to understand this?