Oh, I see. I would still prefer USB2 for the much better read speed. You should try to minimize write workloads because USB flash drives tend to fail after too many writes.
I have a huge list of blog URLs that I need to check the validity of. I've knocked together a script from this answer and from here.
Here is my script:
$siteURL='http://example.com/'
$File = '.\urls.txt'
$NewContent = Get-Content -Path $File |
ForEach-Object {
$_
$HTTP_Req...
(my PS-fu goes as far as about one script I've ever written)
My guess would be the that status 404 is treated as an error (which I guess it is?), so an exception is thrown, so file doesn't get written to in those circumstances
In order to handle a 404 response (and similar error responses), we need a bit of error handling code:
ForEach-Object {
$_
$HTTP_Request = [System.Net.WebRequest]::Create($siteURL + $_)
try {
$HTTP_Response = $HTTP_Request.GetResponse()
}
catch [System.Net.WebExcept...
Got a weird issue that I cant really put in a single question on SU. I recently bought a new monitor to replace my previous one. The strange thing is that I can't turn off the new monitor when there is an active signal which means that I have to wait for my computer to go to sleep before I can turn of my monitor. It's driving me quite crazy.
I press the power button, but it just won't turn off. Pressing the same button, the same way once my pc is sleeping (or turned off), turns off the monitor.
How the hell do I troubleshoot this?
And just as usual, as soon as I type my question out I find a resource that tells me that I have to press the power button for 5 seconds before it turns off. reddit.com/r/ultrawidemasterrace/comments/anrmjb/… Why oh why.
I am trying to interpret this result of hdparm:
janus@behemoth ~ $ sudo hdparm -Tt --direct /dev/nvme0n1
/dev/nvme0n1:
Timing O_DIRECT cached reads: 2548 MB in 2.00 seconds = 1273.69 MB/sec
Timing O_DIRECT disk reads: 4188 MB in 3.00 seconds = 1395.36 MB/sec
I do not understand how the...
E.... I'd be inclined to go for the 4000D over the 2000D. The sensor size is the same, but they've crammed more pixels in to the 2000D, so you're going to run into noise earlier as you push the ISO.
The only difference between the two cameras is the sensor size and the screen size/resolution.
Canon's high-end stuff is great but their entry-level cameras aren't on the same level as their competition.
FWIW... I'm actually inclined to suggest Micro Four Thirds instead at this point. You lose a bit of high-ISO performance because the sensor is smaller, but it's not much worse than APS-C these days and it's a heck of a lot smaller.
A better choice is something in the higher end of the point-and-shoot range, not a DSLR or mirrorless system camera.
At this price point, you start seeing better options like larger-than-average sensors and better lenses.
What is the existing camera?
Zoom range likely matters here and DSLRs only come with 3x zoom lenses at this price point. You're going to have spend hundreds to thousands more for good optics beyond that.
@djsmiley2k: Sony HX99, Panasonic TZ95? Neither of these will give you great image quality at night, but I'm leaning towards the Sony here.
Larger sensors are hard to come by without a higher budget.
Be sure to tell me what you've chosen, @djsmiley2k. Your options are fairly limited as the modern smartphone camera has displaced most of the entry-level.
My "everyday" camera is a Panasonic FZ1000. Not exactly cheap at $600 when I got it, but the combination of a larger 1" sensor and 24x zoom range make for a very satisfying shooting experience.
(there's an FZ1000 II coming soon with an updated interface and control layout and other minor enhancements, but there's no reason to replace my existing solution)
Well, not 24x zoom. 16x.
Sorry, got a bit confused. The zoom range on the FZ1000 is 16x, 25-400mm (equiv. 135).