@JourneymanGeek Cool buying stuff from people who actually use it . . . ? Thier picture download speed acts like it was served from an android phone :-)
@JourneymanGeek what bob said, the alogrythm for li-ion is such that it never goes much higher than ~4.20 +-5 . if a Old li-ion or abused one, will not charge "fully" or drops back to a lower state after a full charge, it usually means it was bad. OR in english, a battery that will not get high or stay high is a dead one.
So IF the charger is all working right, and the battery is acting like it wont get to or stay at ~4.0 then it likely never will.
A good li-ion could maintain the visable voltage it got to after a charge for as much as 3-6 months even. Where if you charged it to 4.1 (as read 15 min after the charge power is removed) . it could still read 4.09 months later.
I'm trying to understand the meaning of "real time systems" but I don't get it because basically it's "when the response time is really important", but isn't that the case with everything? i.e. no computer is purposefully slow on it's responses :/
@Bob is weird the worst cheapest china junk batteries defy all logic. I have even had ones that took 3 cycles to being to operate at the actual capacity they held. (china uses new sofisticated math that is about 30% off real :-)
I had to order wire from europe this week, because there is no copper Coax in all of the US :-) Well almost, some of the big huge supplyers for construction jobs and hospitals and all had it. I felt the shipping bite when shipping costs as much as the cable :-(
I am thinking its about time to get some free trade going :-) a bit of user2user WTO (world trade organisation) so we can exchange a few of the last things in the world still worth owning.
_over at the oakland port where they ship massive stuff by cargo ship, they were sending truck (cargo carrier) after cargo carrier of Beef to austrailia. On the other side of the street, trucks were leaving with Austrailian Beef , headed to the US. I was thinking some crafy salesperson is getting stinkey off of that , while we all waste tons of fuel to exchange , , , the same frilling thing.
(unless of course there are a lot of missing roos and dingos)
(or nobody noticed those were mad cows)
@Boris_yo From what i could find. the inner conductor is Steel (terrible electrical properties) painted with a bit of copper on the outside. and the grounding is all aluminum.
Took me some time to realise that all but the "pro" wire i have is highly attracted to a magnet (duhh) . and has a good ammount of loss of signal down these long runs of it.
Also got some telephone wire, which was copper colored steel. That is rather funny, when a discussion of telephones in the US would refer to "running in copper" " or over the copper" or other loose copper referances when referring to LandLines.
Yes i am not to impressed with alum, a friend in the next town , the house has all aluminum wire in it, and it was so poor they replaced it all. If you put a good load on it (like heater or toaster) the wires heat up some in the wall, kinda shows that there is more loss than i would have thought.
When you look at the "guage guides" they talk of like 1ohm for 1000feet for certian gauges of copper. when you try and run a analog signal 300feet , these losses, plus the interferances were atrocious.
When i tried to run a mere 60 amps at very low voltage, the losses from just the distance of a few rooms was so bad, that i realised why they are never using such low voltages.
@Psycogeek oh, assuming reasonably pure metals, the conductivity constants are just that: constants
you could have other factors in a given length of wire (thickness, length, purity, etc), but the conductivity of the pure metal for a certain temperature isn't gonna change
watts is watts. the big ac unit is almost the polar opposite of the direct drive low voltage, the similarity is there isnt many losses from curcuit stuff.
@JourneymanGeek i have burnd a lot of things up :-) been electrocuted over 5 times, but they say it doesnt count because i did DIE, damn technicalities
@JourneymanGeek right, but transformers and switching curcuits not only waste a lot of power doing thier conversions, but they end up failing. So if somehow i was to make something to last forever, it would have less Stuff, be more simple.
In my room, the main light is ACrichie leds. they made these leds with hundreds of series emitters in a tiny package, with 1/2 of the diodes reversed. The idea was to run it off AC direct. All i did was ask them to buy a few, and they sent me a whole rack of them to experiment :-) for free.
But (as yous guys know) running leds with sine waves might be easy and cheap, but they far prefer to not be too high in temperature/voltage ever. so i turned them into DC , defeating the purpose of them. but they still live forever.
@Bob well that is what i have done a few times, put in a beastly copper cable. like for simple stuff they have that outdoor Low-Voltage-lighting cable which is fair priced per foot.
@Bob Some of these conversion methods have a lot of unstated losses. In testing only premium products, and high priced stuff is the actual losses stated. Even "gold" claimed PSUs are just "better" and have a effeciency curve, that is still very sweet.
Take the most simple analog voltage regulator, or a simple diode. when using that stuff with a battery. without mosfets, and special diodes, dropping .7v of 3.8v is a huge loss.
I would swear that the 80W of power that my Dell ultrasharp with the 6 extra inputs and layers of extra stuff was blowing 40 watts of that out its butt. as heat leaving the back. Todays dell of the same size with none of the extras runs around ~30w.
--Speaking of losses being observed in massive ammounts of heat (hey i am in california were that is not desired) Anybody ever convert all that extra energy from a combustion process (auto engine) into running steam on 2 of the cylinders?
Why we always use only part of available energy? One neighbor is running solar pannels, converting 15% of the energy to electrical. The other neighbor has them black water sheet plastic to heat water with the heat energy from the sun. Isnt it about time to make the chockolate peanutButter combos , and get 2 types of energy from the same sources? Turn the wastes into use first hand.
-ok so the peltier muffler was a bad idea :-) but it has to be better than a perpetual energy fraud.
Hang on my eggs are almost done. If you want to buy my book, i can show you many other energy saving methods . it is called "cooking breakfast on an AMD" :-)
@Boris_yo that is some weird controller, or was there another picture comming?
oh crud, i am getting a drive-by activation request for my win7. it pops up in the notification, i reach over to the mouse to grab it, and Poof it dissapears again. Grrrr Oh crap
the hell it aint. if you cut me off after spending 3 months getting this horrid OS working exactaly like i want, i am gonna crack the dang thing.
@Boris_yo i already unblocked 2 things twice (must be udp and tcp). finnaly 3rd times the charm. Windows own firewall works well :-)
I will have to document this for court. windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/genuine/about Try and use the link there to Buy win7 :-) not just here but many places on thier stuff it jumpt to win8 advertising.
now go to the store, microsoftstore.com/… and again try to buy win7 :-) they got it hidden behind a few Windows resource books, all dusty in the corner there .
@Psycogeek @JourneymanGeek Ok, in that batch of four "4000mAh" Ultrafires, one came rattling (which stopped after a bit of shaking) (o.O), and one won't charge above 3.8V. Yay.
I still haven't tried charging it on the dumb charger yet.
The smart charger shows fully charged, which it only does if charging voltage drops below ~100mA - so there's definitely something wrong.
@Bob ultrafire products are bad enough, but now they are being cloned too. made sence to others but no sence to me. if your going to clone something, at least have it be something people want , or want to pay money for.
@Bob we are all somewhat in the same boat, as the brick and mortar stores dont often carry weird flashlight batteries. Though half the customers shoping at an electronics store know what they are, and the geekey ones have some light that uses it.
@Bob that is a li-fe-po. lower voltage , and usefull for hotwires. it could run a toaster :-) for a few minutes. robots, power tools, and will have good longevity, but you need the right voltage to charge. and you need the right curcuit type in the light to use. and the capacity does suck.
@Bob another one that tessted good a few years ago was the "flames" version on one of them. i forget the brand, but it showed realistic flames up from the bottom. many people did ok with them as cheaper protected cells.
> I had a some 2400 mah Ultrafire cells, identical bought at the same time too. When I tested them for capacity they were all over the place, some had as little as 1500 mah of capacity, some 1900 mah and one of them was actually overspec at 2500 mah.
@Bob yes, lots of shipping going on that doesnt meet the rules. BatterySpace follows all the rules . . . then plops the battery at the bottom of the box, and tosses padding on top ;-Phhht they are very close to here, so it works.
In this country if clone is found, they claim to take it and destroy it, and tell shipper to go stuff themselves. But it is rare that they get things. as whole containers full of clones (or even little micronised china workers) are shipped in without anyone even cracking a seal.
@Boris_yo What is the controller you use with your new splitter?
@Bob you do know those are raw cells, no protection. But you can make a protected cell yourself with them. or if you know what your going to put them in there is (almost) zero risk of damaging the cell. Some lights that use buck or direct drive will not discharge a li-ion beyond the voltage of the led, so that becomes the low voltage protection. Then any good charger is the high voltage protection. There is no doubling though, and not shorts protection.
@Boris_yo ahhh. but no analog sticks on those? is this for going retro :-)
@Boris_yo sandisk cool. best most realistic rated flash chunks. i have tested some sandisks that were rated 4 , going as fast as a class 10 rated pos wintek. (as long as they are real). they are highly cloned items too.
@Psycogeek That's what I have. Directional axis is hard to press and one of buttons as well. Select button does not respond unless pressed with high force. Do you know how to make these buttons smooth again?
@Boris_yo I could try, right after i am tempted to put them in the garbage. Clean the contacts. But rubber parts is rubber parts, so often they are finished being rubbery.
@Boris_yo depends has it beem smoked around? because tabacco resins and kitchen greace and road films might move away better with household ammonia, then alcohol to finish so it is contaminate free, and dries fast.
@Bob most of my stuff is not protected. But all my boost lights use protected, because i cant be determining when it is to low in them.
(boost meaning as the voltage drops, the curcuit keeps pushing more and more amps out of it, soo it can be brought to low, unless you get in there and voltage check more often, or if you charge more than needed)
@Bob the cheaper the light is (oddly enough) the more likely it is just a resistered or direct drive with PWM. the more expencive ones have all the fancy stuff, and the Most expencive also have built in protection.
Any Series is always out, because series one battery could be low, and reverse charge would destroy a cell in one move.
@Boris_yo Smoke gets in your eyes :-) that nasty stuff floats around and recondences on surfaces. Where the air isnt moving it can just slowly park itself on things.
@Boris_yo there is also plastic resins too. saw that much and much in my old car. as the plastic biodegrades , some nasty film forms on everything. The older it is the more it degrades, untill the film on (like my car window) was frosted.
The plastic itself lost all its elasticity or whatever goop they put in to make it softer, and it would come off with a fingernail scratch. and the windows had some weird resiney substance on them.
(dont think about it, because if you do you will realise were breathing that stuff :-)
--Did you know they did a study of New computers being toxic, until they were "burned in" . I think they were saying the study came about when a whole huge office had new computers put in, and large ammounts of the office workers got sick. So they further studied it.
Of course the new computers could have had new software in them :-) and that could cause anyone endless stress .
-- know what that new car smell is? Glue :-) I was fixing up the floorboards, and putting in some new insulation on a pannel van. for 6 months after the car not only looked new , but it smelled new . a large ammount of the smell was the glue that i got a the auto store to glue in the carpet and insulation.
@TRiG "jpg" is a more modern variant of the preferred file extension for JPEG images.
"jpg" and "jpeg" refer to the same type of file, but programs that automatically add the ".jpeg" extension tend to be much older than programs that automatically add the "jpg" extension, so most of the time when you see a file with the ".jpeg" extension, it's an old image, or a very old-fashioned user
and old images tend to be less trustworthy because they're more out of date
also, they're forgetting one more
.htm/html -- as far to the left (negative trustworthiness) as possible
@allquixotic I think the trustworthyness standard isn't measured by age, but by popularity and environment where they're likely to be found: the .tex habitat is geek comunities, whereas .gif thrives on email chains, forums, social networks and imgur/9gag
