Basically, you want to start with a switch. You run a black and white wire in from the bottom of the switch box (from the panel). This will take the form of 12/2 or 14/2 cable. You run another 12/2 or 14/2 cable from the top of the switch box to the first light. You connect the black wire to t...
there's just a single 14/2 going into the switch box, so I pulled off the ceiling fixture and there's 4 different cables in there
Oh yes, sorry, I thought I said that
Yes, it controls that light (primarily...)
so I guess the hot for the attic receptacle was just wired to the switched hot of this light fixture vs the always-hot that is entering the light fixture box
Hometalk launched in March 2011 and just relaunched as a sort of Pinterest/Quora/Tool Time for the home-owning set. Aimed at making asking questions about drain traps a bit easier to answer, the site currently has 100,000 users asking hundreds of questions daily which isn’t bad for a niche site.
Speaking of panels... The other day I was trying to get my clamp on ammeter on a wire in the panel, there was a snap and a spark, and I almost $hit my pants.
we just decided last week it is time to start looking for a new house. so my projects are now things like completing trim, paint touch-ups..
anyone have experience with subdivision builders? the two we looked at here (Caraco and Tamarack) both charge like crazy for some upgrades. Caraco charges $15/sqft for hardwood instead of carpet..
I've heard incidentally with Tamarack that it is ~$2-3k CHEAPER to have them install their default countertops, and then replace them with granite on your own later. Read some stuff about a guy that did that the day after closing..
Well, they won't close without countertops or finished floors etc. I am assuming they won't just build it to drywall and let you take over from there. :)
at least with this subdivision builds, you basically sign a contract, and then 8 months later you have a finished house (in between you pick some finishes and make a couple payments)
custom is great because then I could do a bunch of work myself, and not waste money on things I'm going to just rip out... but downside is I have to be way more hands-on in a project management sort of way.
I'm planning a small roof - 12' x 16', gable style. Almost all the rafters will identical.
Should I build rafter units ahead of time? 2 rafters + a ceiling joist + plywood gussets. I'd make a simple jig on the deck (before the walls are built) to assemble a rafter unit. Like pre-built trusses bu...
@BMitch yeah I've seen that for sure. At least I know what to look for. There's a walk-through after framing, and from what I've seen of the model homes and a friend's, Tamarack mostly does okay with them.
As far as I can tell, normal practice is to use a ridge beam 1 size wider than the rafters, so the rafters can fully bear on it the beam. That makes for a pretty heavy stick.
@JayBazuzi My garage (not built by me) has a 1x6 as the ridge beam, and 2x4 rafters. Not saying I'd want to walk around on it, but it's held up for however long it's been there (10-30 years?)
@JayBazuzi The ridge beam is important and the second thing to go up if you build it in pieces
The first thing to go up are the joists
With the ridge beam up there, you place the rafters going from the ridge beam to edge (typically to the top plate of the wall below if memory serves me, but now it's to the point I should pull out my framing book)
Doesn't seem like a ridge beam is really that important. The weight of the roof is going to transfer down the rafters, and try to push the walls apart. As long as the rafters are secured to the walls, and the walls are held together well, how much is the ridge beam really doing.
reading through the book, there isn't any roof design without a ridge beam until I get to the engineered design
looking over that now
with trusses (the pre-engineered roofs that are delivered to most homes these days) you have a lot of internal supports to maintain the spacing and prevent them from tipping over.
There's at least a line of supports across each side of the ridge, half way down the roof if it's fairly large, and some diagonals
That was a good distraction, but I still stand by my opinion that this is easier to frame with a rafter and in pieces. It becomes a 2 person job at that point.
You can raise the ridge beam with a temporary 2x4 that's tacked into the wall directly below and a couple of braces, or you can have everyone hold tight while you get the gable ends assembled on each side.
I meant to say it's easier to frame with a "ridge beam"
anyway, time is up for PUT and I need to get off my butt and out for a walk. Have a great weekend everyone!
Basically, you want to start with a switch. You run a black and white wire in from the bottom of the switch box (from the panel). This will take the form of 12/2 or 14/2 cable. You run another 12/2 or 14/2 cable from the top of the switch box to the first light. You connect the black wire to t...
