Electrical Engineering

8:02 AM

I avoid Academia SE

Spending more than the minimum time there reinforces the reality that most people obtaining degrees these days don't really deserve one / are too stupid to handle having one properly.

3 hours later…

10:50 AM

Hello. Don't you mind an amateur repairment question?

I have a disabled camera on my hands, I tried to fix it and am assembling it ATM. I remember that this white socket was sliding to fix the cord when I disassembled the camera but I am not sure anymore because it seems to be fixed. Can you guess how should this socket work?

@rdtsc 6 channel mono fits in 8 channel 7.1

Find yourself a 7.1 surround enc/dec set?

@EuriPinhollow brown part slides a mm or two, or rotates about 40 degrees away from the board to open enough to let an FPC in

11:11 AM

@Asmyldof Brown is obvious enough, I have a problem with white one.

It can probably miss a part. Does this socket have a specific code?

PlasmaHH

11:32 AM

That White one looks like someone gnawed on it

11:51 AM

Did I mention that I an unqualified? Yes I did.

@EuriPinhollow Two pins on the white connector are bent. You will not be able to plug the connector into it until you straighten those pins. Press them down until they are all in line and have the correct distance to the other row. You will have to look closely at both parts of hte connector to get things right.

Note: Straightening the pins might break what is left of the plastic holding things together.

12:19 PM

@JRE Interesting thing is that the cord is a flat thin plastic, like the one for the brown connector (but without checkerboard placement of contact plates). The pins are not bent, it's their factory look, look at them attentively, they are all slightly thinned near the edge and one of them is longer too, their end is tilted. The socket has 4 wires. The socket does not seem damaged and missing any part except that dent near the PCB (I tried to push it gently) and a dent on the outer side.

Yet the cord does not hold itself in it.

They are BENT. look closely at the picture. There is broken plastic above the two pins on the left side of the white connector. The pins are pointed UP. The connector won't go in and stay because those two pins won't line up with the holes in the other connector.

Post a picture of the thing that plugs into the white connector.

I see now. The connector is too thin to hold itself nonetheless. I will try to photograph it.

The socket is really strange because all other sockets in this camera are hinged. But in this one there is no features which could hold hinges.

12:54 PM

Pins are aligned.

The magnification is the same if you zoom at 100%.

1:06 PM

OK. With the picture of what goes in the connector, things are much clearer.

Could the socket have something that is not fixed on it? I could have lost that part.

Something is missing. There should be a clip of some kind that holds the pins down on the flex connector. The clip is missing. The pins are bent, and the housing is broken.

I think this thing is toast.

wat

The only way to fix a connector of this type is to replace it.

Toast: broke, busted, shot, kaputt, junk, ain't gonna work no more.

This is not a commercial work, I may thereifixedit.

Gonna guess how.

1:11 PM

If you are damned good with a soldering iron, you could remove the white connector, then glue the flex down in line with the pins on the PCB. You could then very carefully solder short pieces of wire from the flex to the traces on the PCB.

I am really damned good with a soldering iron, and I'd only do it if I could afford to throw the device away if I screwed up.

Other than that, you need a new connector.

I payed $8 for the camera. I do not want to screw it up, I bought it knowing that I may afford to screw something up so that it still works.

I wonder where can I buy a single 5x3mm small connector.

Those are used in factories and hobbyists do not need them.

I can fix it inside with something.

Digikey has a lot of different ones. Check them over and see if the one you need is there.

Some of them you can only buy in lots of hundreds (or thousands,) but many of them can be bought by the piece.

Removing that kind of connector is best done with a hot air gun and a (relatively) small nozzle. You add solder and flux to all the soldered parts, then heat it with the hot air gun until all the solder melts at once. The generally also melts the plastic in places - no problem since you are replacing it any way.

Remove excess solder with solder wick before installing the new connector.

Some people use hot air or reflow ovens to solder in SMD parts. I just solder them in by hand with a fine point soldering iron and thin (0.5mm solder,) then clean up with solder wick if I manage to short some pins together.

1:29 PM

I managed to get some tiny parts soldered with a 1mm thick nozzle, no problems. Do not really want to wait one more month for the connector to arrive though, I do not live in USA and other accessible sources ship in one month.

I may bend those pins done so that they hold the cord.

And then insert the cord.

Seems ok now.

This part is not moving so it's fine.

2 hours later…

3:12 PM

Socket broke, going to solder.

3:41 PM

Looks terribly lol.

1 hour later…

5:08 PM

I WON THE MOTORCYCLE BATTLE!

Everything is fixt and stable and smooth upto 180 (don't tell cop folk)

5:58 PM

What was wrong (besides the tires?)

6:33 PM

@JRE There was a wobble for a long time. Doing the tyres due to a glass-rupture in the rear meant I decided to revise the entire front

Now the wobble's gone too

6:49 PM

Hmmmm. Wheel or tire that needed balancing?

7:19 PM

none o that

You're not suddenly thinking I'm an amateur, are you?

Probably dirt, air or defect in shock absorber on one side

Which is why I took both apart entirely and cleaned them out, let them dry, etc etc, and just rebuilt

gotta go cook now

Thereifixedit. Thx all.

1 hour later…

8:38 PM

@Asmyldof Nope. Showing that I'm an amateur. Haven't ridden or driven a motorcycle in over twenty years, and never was much of a mechanic.

@JRE Garages kept screwing me over, started doing some stuff myself and/or checking their work. I strive to doing everything I do professionally, so I am now just about a full mechanic

9:03 PM

Remember me linking that 400kV thingy on Aliexpress?

Decided to order 3 to see how bad it is....

It really isn't

Actually 491kV

Takes 21W, emits, pulsed, approximately 9W~13W

1 hour later…

Kerem Zaman

10:14 PM

Hi everyone

Nowadays, we’re trying to replicate a 24V 40A H-bridge as shown in the link:

http://hades.mech.northwestern.edu/index.php/Driving_a_high_current_DC_Motor_using_an_H-bridge

PCB layout: http://i.imgur.com/ntGnA8R.png

Before we start, we comprehend the basic principles of the H bridge. In this design, we have trouble in providing 5V into 4N27 optocoupler and 12V into IR2109 Gate Driver. The voltage converter VBSD1-s24-s12 sparks and burns each trial and we measure 24V voltage applied to IR2109. While this procedure, the motor could not move at all.

- Near to VBSD1 converter, we use polar capacitors instead of nonpolar ones as the datasheet of it. This is true or not?
- What can we measure to control this circuit?
- What can be the reasons behind the converter burn?

Note: The ground terminal is the left hand side of the copper traces

1 hour later…