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@Criggie The toxicity and the hassle of cleaning is keeping me from it. I think, but may be wrong, that resin printing is less beneficial than normal FDM printing for the environment.

@Criggie Cool!

I'm just delving in the world of Klipper, there aren't many questions on this matter here. Does anyone of the room users have experience? We could try to start posting some essential questions on this topic, see e.g. BTT Pi fails to list USB connection with ls /dev/serial/by-id/* (or /by-path/*); how to connect to the controller board MCU?.

@NickAlexeev There isn't much activity here, only a few of the die hards! I suggest you post this as a question!

@Cow many thanks for the heads-up!

@NickAlexeev With this chat you do not get large exposure, why not make it a question? WWW gave me : reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/su396k/biqu_h2_grubb_screws

So. the fact you need another iteration of your own design is completely in line with the design philosophy using an existing design!

@Criggie I've seen them before, but as every thing on printables or thingieverse, it never exactly suits your need, hence you nedd another iteration! :-)

@Criggie Your own design? Nice! Also handy for fixing picture frames!

@Criggie Impatience? ;-)

@Criggie You need more walls when you have very slightly sloping angles. I think this is asked before. It is not underextrusion, just a lack of support and overlap

@NickAlexeev We have those questions on the stack

@Criggie I mostly use M3, rare cases M4, M5 and a single M6/M8. All ordered from AliEzpress as well. You ordered the correct inserts, those are far more easy to insert!

@Criggie 🤣, nice build! I wish I hadn't thrown away my grandfathers drill press! I alwas eyeball it! Usually works quite well, few are skew.

@Criggie Very nice!

@Criggie Still watching! ;-)

@Davo Maybe something for you to answer? 3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/22870/…

@RoryAlsop You beat me!

@BobOrtiz Nice script. +1 I never would have thought of tackling this with SQL. But, let us keep the old questions what they are, unleess they pop up as a result of the Community Bot.

@BobOrtiz Hi Bob, we already do that, please look at: 3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/…

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Large print! I hope it prints well!

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 guilty! ;)

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 That would make a great question and if you happen to fix it answer it yourself!

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Hi Paul, I've never printed in silk PLA (but experienced this also with ABS and PETG), but indeed, you should push for extra temperature, try 210 - 215. Make sure that the print cooling fan is also not blowing full throttle.

@misk94555 Why not ask that as a question on the site?

Happy New Year!

@Kilisi it was new for me, nicely done

@Davo Your voting is much appreciated!

@Kilisi Nicely done, maybe you could share your experience by creating a Q&A?

@Davo "Happy Birthday" You outrank me by 2 months 😉

@Mast I use the glass scraper too, and a thin painter's spatula

Feed rate is not a synonym for Extrusion Multiplier. Maybe it is better to reword Extruder feed rate is a synonym for Extrusion Multiplier.

@Trish I've posted a comment and a different answer to your answer on 3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20005/…

@Criggie I guess this is a good question for R.... He has thorough knowledge on print speeds of the Ender. I doubt if those speeds are ever reached.

@Kilisi I generally print only in PETG or NGEN, which prints almost as easy as PLA but has more ductility and heat resistance and is generally way better for structural parts. However, if you want to print display items, miniatures I rely on PLA, it prints details very well. Be sure to buy a good brand, I always use quality filament from a national filament factory.

@Mast I'm afraid the underside of the print doesn't look very good (no hard feelings! ;-) )

@Mast Just put the chisel in between the roof and the print and it will let go! Much better quality surfaces, I use this on PETG which prints hotter than PLA, so the chances of fusing support and print object are way higher.

@Mast I use chisels and dental tools for removing supports. Do note that you can create a platform at the top of support (I think it is called roof support or something in Cura), if you dial in the distance from the roof to the print object you get much better results!

@Trish They only allow sending else I could have picked it up, their warehouse is around the corner from me...

@Criggie Next nozzles I get are the CHT ones! E.g. 123-3d.nl/… (random Dutch shop link).

@Criggie Hi Criggie, yes you should get yourself a new nozzle and silicone sock. I'd buy a Nickel coated brass or copper nozzle and a sock with a hole the size of the outer diameter of the nozzle (not the socks with a 1 mm opening). If too arrow you get filament inside easily, happened to me too.

@Mast What about Engineering.SE?

@Trish LMFAO

@Kuba Thanks!

@Kuba @halirutan or other mods Please reject migration of mathematica.stackexchange.com/questions/273363/…, I accidentally threw it in the wrong direction, my apologies it was way too early this morning.

You could increase the amount of grid points to test, e.g. 10x10, but this requires a rebuild of the firmware. such a grid shoudn't be used before every print for the sake of time.

The firmware has AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR set, so, the result is a mesh, the grid point amount is 4x4 = 16, this may prove to be too less for your deformed bed.

Thanks for the update, so one corner is lower, this should not be a problem for the ABL. In such cases I would tram the bed to have the nozzle to bed gap as constant over the majority of the plate and let the ABL handle the surface shape. Your issue is thus that the ABL is not working. This could be related to the option, or the mesh grid point amount.

I'm just curious to understand why it is not possible to tram the bed manually. After that is done it is just adding a G-code to your start G-code and you're good to go.