@DavidCarlisle Yes, I also find it strange that the trip goes into math mode and back again.
Obviously, nobody has wanted a vertically centered cell since the 1970s. And the m column, unlike the l, r, c column, requires a mandatory argument that I may not even know.
So I'm afraid you have to write 'tabularz'. But without a mandatory length measure for the overall table; because I don't necessarily know the total width either.