I went the manual smooshing route this time. I also noticed there seems to have been a nearby ant nest in a pear tree pot, but the ants were anxiously moving out by the time I noticed, carrying their eggs out of the pear pot and off into the weeds near a fence.

I've been going the very low maintenance route. I'm not looking to make this an intensive project. Just have the trees growing in a yard where they get partial sun and plenty of rain. I don't water and haven't fertilized yet as most of these got new pots and fresh (bagged) potting soil within the past few months.

Does it say on the bags of soil that a balanced fertilizer was added to the soil? Soil nor compost, ever substitutes for a balanced fertilizer where you know the formulation and can keep track of what you've added. I am very glad you used potting soil and people have lost plants by using potting soil that had fertilizer added to it...and then added their own fertilizer or even compost. Plants have to have balanced fertilizer just as much as water and light and drainage. If plants are lacking chemicals (or nutrients) they are weakened and are more susceptible to disease and insect damage.

Shoot, and I have to add that any plant in a pot has to be watered by hand, never by rain. Serious. Are there roots growing through the drain holes and into the soil? It takes less energy to give your trees in pots the correct maintenance than it does to dump those pots and dead trees out and start over, grins. I am very glad you used potting soil, that is a very big deal. Check the weight of those pots. You'll be able to tell if any are in need of water. Balanced fertilizer is critical. The lowest, easiest, safest maintenance is Osmocote 14-14-14. Last those trees easily 4 to 6 mo's.

Did I also recommend getting rid of the bark mulch/chips off the top of the soil in those pots? Reduces nitrogen for sure and offers free 'condos' for insects, production of fungus.

Aphids are also a temporary infestation but they are able to do major damage as well as the introduction of viruses. Neem would only be necessary once, maybe twice and that is it. Those pump sprayers are so cheap! A two gallon pump pressurized sprayer at Lowes is around$13.

Getting rid of mulch does seem like a good idea, I'll experiment with that. I'll probably do a preventative Neem spray too (at night - thanks for the tip!) Rain watering is much easier and I think keeps the plants acclimated, and to avoid potted plants growing into the ground, I created an air gap using pallets.

@cr0 and I have to say because I am so responsible that 'preventative' spraying is not a good thing. Are those aphids still around? I'd rather see you fertilize with good ole Osmocote extended release, no mess, no fuss, a done deal. That will give them what they need to produce their own food. Without food plants die slowly and are susceptible to disease and insects. Where this "fertilizer is bad gig" has come from but make no mistake all plants need these chemicals to do photosynthesis.

@stormy there's plenty of rain here, I'm in zone ~4-5 northeast USA. It will get cold but most of these trees will be planted in the ground before frost, or will be brought to an enclosed porch (which gets very cold but is better than outside)...maybe even indoors fully but I think it's good to let the trees experience the weather (though I agree potted plants need more care)

I'll double check the soil bags (have more of it) and will make sure I get fertilizer down first before applying Neem unless pests are coming in unsmooshable numbers. Some pests aren't bad either, it's when I see a ton in one spot I get worried. Like you said, a healthy plant that has all it needs can handle some pests and disease anyway, vs. a struggling plant is more likely to show signs of devastating infection

Do you recommend any soil covering for potted plants? No mulch at all, just keep it bare soil? So far the only difference I see mulch make is A) no weeds in the pot and B) more ants. B seems bad and I'd like to avoid that, A is a marginal benefit and it's easy to yank the occasional foreign plant out of the pots as needed. I just figured I mulch the garden so I should mulch the pots if I have wood chips around.

@cr0 No I do not recommend anything at all on top of the potting soil. Grins. A very cool thing about potting soil is there a zero weed seeds, zero weed problems unless outside and perhaps a weed seed or two blows in or a bird poops in the pots. I love ants. Weeds are just never ever a problem. And the mass of gardening I have done I've not ever had problems with weeds. I am the laziest gardener. Just enough not a bit more...the 'garden' is another world from potted plants.

@cr0 I am very relieved you are planting these trees soon. Sooner the better to be able to acclimate and set up the root systems. Make a circle around the base to maintain; 2 to 3' diameter area to be cleared of weeds. Make a damned tier or circular area within to collect and allow water into the soil where it is needed. Allow to dry out some before watering again. Have you heard about mycorrhiza fungus? Go buy a packet to give to your plants.

A dam on a tier?

Your thinking is excellent...see a weed,just yank it. Pots do not need mulch. Potted plants need protection of their roots because the roots out of the larger garden can easily be killed from cold. Are there still tons of aphids? They are a short term insect but can be damaging. Easy to control with just a little vigilance. Mulching the garden with non decomposed organic matter is not that great. Decomposed organic material feeds you soil, which feeds your plants.

...aphids can be scary because they congregate (or are herded by ants) in large numbers. Spraying with neem is very effective and safe, but don't use unless you've seen and ID'ed the problem insects. Hard and fast rule. If you have wood chips around use them to smother weeds in the large garden. There is no benefit to mulching potted plant soil.