Is needing a longer wheelbase on climbs something specific to tall riders? Something to do with center of gravity?

I've never heard of it, but seemed like a good idea

I trialled the idea with this thing

Sadly an 15 kg steel bike climbs about as fast as my road bike of the day.

But it did feel more secure on the road - I didn't have to manage my pedal stroke as much.

Phew, posted my first question on StackExchange

what happens if a rear wheel is not dished properly and instead offset by a millimeter or so to the non-drive side? Shouldn’t it help achieve good spoke angles and good tension on the non-drive side?

First upvoted question :)

@Michael wouldn't that mean that you'd have to tilt the whole bike slightly to the side, resulting in accelerated tire wear?

@Erlkoenig yeah, I’m wondering how you’d counteract it and if it would mean some kind of sideways/skidding force on the tyres (like driving a 4 wheel vehicle without differential or a 3 axle vehicle around a corner)

any tips for dishing without special tools? Is flipping the wheel in my truing stand occasionally the best way?

More bike porn !

trademe.co.nz/3724587596

@Erlkoenig The camber of the road surface is about that much too.

@Michael For disk brakes - it makes almost zero difference. For rim brakes, yes it can make centering difficult later.

@Michael Get it to a state where the spokes are all not-loose then check by putting the wheel in the bike, and see how it compares to the chain/seat stays. Generally you'll have to move the rim toward the drive side.

@Criggie the cyclocross has quite a lot of clearance hard to place anything accurately on the seatstays, and I don’t know if one can trust the frame to be very accurate in the first place (though that raises the question if high accuracy dishing makes sense :D )

I used the flip around technique in the truing stand now, seems to be ±1mm dished

if it fits... it fits

clearance is clearance

I’m surprised I only managed 700–750N of tension on the non-drive side despite the asymmetric rim

with 1200N on the drive side

Most things are self-clearancing, given enough time,.

Nice !

I get a nice DING on the short side and a DANG on the longer side.

Numbers don't help me much - the wheel doesn't care what teh gauge says :-)

when did 2 AM sneak past ?

G';ngith !

good Night Criggie, you owl :D

the wheel feels extremely sturdy. I can put my whole body weight on it sideways and only feel a tiny bit of flex. Most sturdy wheel I’ve ever handled.

now I just have to keep my perfectionism in check and don’t try to over-optimize for hours

@Michael I’ve had good success with the soda can method. You balance the rim on two soda cans put on the ground, and you measure the gap between the axle and the ground. Then flip and repeat. When the gaps are equal = correctly dished.

@MaplePanda good idea, but you’d have to measure from the locknuts to the ground, not from the tip of the axle

@Criggie Awesome!! What a steal, the IGH alone is 1000€! I'd buy it if it weren't literally on the other side of the planet 😁

@Michael Locknuts yeah. My brain doesn’t work that early in the morning.

@Criggie please, please buy it. I want to see it after you put all your lights on it. It will like something out of an early 60s sci-fi film.

You can sell your wife's car. It's a tandem after all and you work at the same town.

@Michael it's difficult to ride hands-off when the rear wheel isn't tracking the front wheel. The bike always seems to try that to start a turn.

@gschenk Its worth it for the hub alone. But yet again its "medium/small" not "giant"