+1, but good luck charging the tiny battery in an electric toothbrush with 100 W. Most likely, those 10 W are all you'll ever need in a bathroom, unless they start making USB hairdryers. So just buy a low-spec USB wall wart for $5 and spend the remaining $40 elsewhere.

A 100W USB charger will be designed with a Power Delivery negotiation and will adjust to whatever you plug into it up to that demand. Not a problem.

@TooTea a $5 charger will do for the toothbrush, and would be in keeping with the spirit of my answer. The better charger can wait til there's a specific need. Your way, an old 00's iphone cube from the back of the kitchen drawer can be used with the existing GFCI and $0 spend.

@MonkeyZeus I have a solution for that too, but that's not the question. :)

@TooTea I've been charging my phone in the bathroom a few times, and I welcomed the 120W

@TooTea I think none of you, me, or OP watches Housewives of Any Effing Where while working on our eyebrows in the bathroom mirror. But trust me, that's a thing people do, and those people would benefit greatly from at least a 25W charger (max power of most phones these days). Add a speaker or Echo, and a USB nail dryer etc etc ..... for $45 you can create great functionality.

The problem is a brick takes up at least one outlet. If you have two 120 V devices already, you need a multi-outlet adapter, or worse, a power strip, which brings up its own safety issues. Another good application of USB outlets is outdoors for security cameras, where bricks are difficult to fit into weatherproof enclosures.

@keshlam, Power Delivery is not what prevents the toothbrush from being overwhelmed by more power than it is designed to handle. The toothbrush itself is responsible for that. The amount of power that a USB-powered device takes from the wall wart is always determined by the device. Power Delivery (and older protocols) allow the wall wart to advertise how much power it is able to supply, and (for PD and QC 3.0 and above), allow the device and the wall wart to negotiate the voltage at which the power will be delivered.

elsewhere I'd recommend a brick over an outlet with built in USB. The bathroom might be an exception. I have more faith in whoever makes the outlet unit designing something that will remain safe and functional in a highly humid to condensing environment than the racers to the bottom making USB bricks.

FYI, I switched (yesterday) the link/image in my answer to a 24W model. Which should be plenty unless you're trying to power your USB-C laptop in the bathroom. Which raises other questions...

@manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact I take your point and updated my answer. But still not upvoting yours. The Leviton outlet is 24W by slight of hand. It's not QC anything, not PD, and the USB-C port is only 15W. I'm looking, and cannot find a GFCI with a decent PD port (I'd settle for 24W) except, to Dan's point, sketchy imports.

Thanks for the update. FYI, while I have not upvoted yours (because I disagree with it), I am not the downvoter - I reserve downvotes for scam/spam and dangerous stuff.

@manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact I expected more DVs with this opinionated answer and I know if you downvoted one of my answers (as I think you have once or twice) it would be well deserved. :)

This is the correct answer. The release cycle from conception to big box availability doesn't nearly keep up with changes to USB. 18 months ago, I bought 65W bricks. 3 months ago, I bought 90W bricks. This week I bought 120W bricks. Maybe I don't need 120W but I have devices with legitimate need and desire to charge in the bathroom that use 90W or higher PD and the trend is in that direction. I don't want to rewire outlets that often, much less cycle the breaker for the circuit.

@StephanSamuel I'm curious what 90W charging need you have in your bathroom?

@user71659: "The problem is a brick takes up at least one outlet" doesn't tell the whole story. You can find multi-port USB charger with far more outputs than you'll ever get from a wallplate-integrated USB charger. Including ones that provide another (or multiple) 120V sockets on the front.

dude your answer doesn't mention the main point, you CAN NOT go from gfci to not-gfci. NO

@Fattie my answer is to keep the existing GFCI and plug in a USB charging station, or to replace it with a reliable and certified GFCI/USB combo outlet that is at least PD 25W if the circumstances call for that. And while I didn't go there, to your point, in some jurisdictions a bathroom outlet can be ordinary if it is a certain distance from any water fixture.

@BenVoigt This is where it's obvious you're a male and likely unmarried because you don't consider hair dryers, curling irons and makeup mirrors that can't run on USB.

@user71659: This is where it's obvious that you didn't read the end of that comment.