India still has "tiffin-wallahs, or packed lunch boys" who deliver your food - "Every day, like the subaltern heroes in a James Joyce novel, some 4,000 tiffin-wallahs or packed lunch boys set off across Bombay's far-flung and verdant outer suburbs.
Parking their bicycles outside a succession of middle-class tower blocks, they collect up to 160,000 home-cooked lunches. They take the tiffins to suburban railway stations. There, they sort them out by destination on the platform. The lunches then travel southwards into the centre of Bombay. Here, the dabba-wallahs deliver them by 12.45pm sharp…