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12:27
so because the cabinet ended up higher than it should have been (because the floor was raised in this part of the kitchen) nothing quite lined up - so i had to get a bit creative with fittings
everything works fine and the wife flushes more than she should down the drain and it never clogs or smells so...
12:56
Why is your trap so low?
because its the only way i could use standard compression pipes to line up
That whole thing has to fill before water actually goes down the drain
i know that
trust me - i spent hours trying different configurations of pipes
even had flexible pipe in there and it leaked
tried putting the T vertical instead of how it is with the disposal coming in through the side and the sink through the top - nope
maybe someday i'll see if something can be custom made - i saw a website one that did custom pvc pipe fitting - so i can raise the trap
Um. You know you can cut PVC fairly easily, right?
And not every joint has to be a compression fitting.
tried that also - can only cut it so much until it comes to close to the compression and stuff doesn't fit together anymore
13:02
You should call a plumber, they'll show you how it's done.
it works, it doesn't leak (been like this for over 2 years), doesn't smell and doesn't clog
so i have a touch less space in the sink cabinet cause of it. IMO nothing should be in that cabinet but she doesn't listen
13:58
@lsiunsuex Any home inspector worth his pay will go over your house with a fine tooth comb after seeing that. This will likely cost you hundreds in various repairs he identifies whenever you go to sell. Is the line going into the wall below the T?
no, above
@lsiunsuex That means the disposal always has water in it, not good.
sorry, thought you said trap
um... the line going into the wall is just below the T
looking in the disposal, there is no standing water
Personally, I'd like to see more glued PVC, you only need/want compression fittings around the trap and at the connections to the sink/disposal.
ok
do they sell disposal's without so much depth ? maybe that would help solve the problem - raising the outlet of the disposal so the rest of the pipe works could be moved out and the trap not be so low?
 
1 hour later…
15:20
The real solution, might be to lower the line in the wall. It would require removing some drywall/plaster, but it's under the sink and not visible anyway.
The original plumbing was probably done without thinking about a disposal. Since disposals hang lower, it's often necessary to lower the drain connection as well.
well, but like @BMitch said, I could cut some pipe, glue it all together and make it higher that way
I guess i'd need to find out, can i glue pvc end to end without compression fittings?
From your pictures, it looks like water is always sitting in the tee section of pipe.
heat up the edge on some sort of melting plate and fuse them together?
You use couplings and PVC glue.
i can't answer that without looking at it - i think the outlet is lower then the T but i cant say for sure
15:25
@lsiunsuex I can't tell for sure from the picture, that's just what it looks like.
common man, i know how to glue pipe together :)
i see though now how there could be concern that its to low and to much water is sitting in the pipe and possibly in the disposal
3 mins ago, by lsiunsuex
I guess i'd need to find out, can i glue pvc end to end without compression fittings?
so i'll revisit it
i ment, litterally fuse them end to end without a coupler
Why?
Probably.
to reduce the space wasted in using a coupler
15:28
the 1/16-1/8"?
the problem came down to inches not lining up - inches wasted in using compression / couplers
honestly, it was 3 years ago almost to the day that we finished the kitchen so I can't say for sure given my knowledge now if this is still the best way
obviously, you guys are saying otherwise, and now that i know it may be a problem, i'll revisit
The pipe sits inside the coupling, and is only held apart by a very thin lip (which is only there to prevent the pipe from sliding all the way through the coupling).
understood
It may never be a problem. But I would think (especially with a disposal) that food particles would build up in the trap, and eventually clog it. It would take a lot of force to push food up and out of the trap.
which could be why its never happened - we rarely use the disposal
same thing with the dishwasher - we rarely use it (only when having a party)- only putting it in for future resale value
15:33
However, you'll probably never have to worry about the trap being siphoned dry.
It would take a heck of a siphon to suck all that water out.
if i use a lot of soap (heavily soiled pan) i notice suds in the garbage disposal
is that a sign of water sitting in the disposal cause of the T ?
The water level is probably just below the disposal, so the bubbles build up and spill over into the disposal.
In other news... F you, rep cap.
Is there a negative rep cap?
i noticed this morning i now have a Review menu in the top menu - is this new? did i score some badge that lets me review? or does everyone have that?
I think it's based on rep. You must have gained enough reputation to access the feature.
so, attic insulation
Right now we have the plaster ceiling of the 2nd floor, then ??? then a few inches of blow in insulation, then plywood on top of that for an attic storage area
My question is, is putting down batts on top of the plywood useful, or do I really need to pull off the plywood and lay the batts down right on top of the actual ceiling for it to be useful?
VTC, exact duplicate.
i asked that weeks ago
the general concensus was so long as there is no air gap between the insulation and plywood, the batt insulation on top of the plywood is fine
@lsiunsuex as a Q on the site?
no, here in the chat :(
16:44
Is it useful as a Q on the site?
well, thats 2 of us now with the same question :)
you ask it, i'll answer it !
@lsiunsuex what do you mean by 'insulation' in your previous statement? The batts or the whatever air space between the ceiling and the plywood?
ok I'll ask
so drywall, then insulation in between the ceiling joists
then plywood - as long as there isn't an air gap between the insulation thats between the ceiling joists, and the underside of the plywood - to put the batt on top of the plywood is fine
It is definitely not full of fill between the joists
ie: fill the cavity inside the ceiling joists first
16:46
There is air between the joist
how am I supposed to fill the cavity inside the joists without taking out all the plywood?
same with mine
...
1 sheet at a time i guess - move the storage - unscrew (or un nail) a sheet, push it to the side - fill the gap - move on to the next sheet and repeat
i screwed my plywood in - only at the corners so it'll be easy
if you went to town on it and put nails every foot... good luck with that :)
Oct 16 at 14:03, by lsiunsuex
should i put a vapor barrier on the actual roof joists inside the attic?
right around where the conversation started
I didn't put it in, it was already there
and it's nailed every foot, solidly to the hilt
make sure you take pictures and blog it ?
and if I have to take out all the plywood anyways, why not just go for blow in and be done with it
unless u still need the storage i guess
17:10
I need some kind of hydraulic nail extractor
sorry
that ones pneumatic :)
like an anti-hammer that can just pull it straight out
@Aaron isn't there some kind of pneumatic pry bar?
The problem is that the nailhead is really flush with the surface
@Aaron so you need one of these:
that you can whack down under the nail
17:25
litterally pull the nail out of the plywood
@lsiunsuex would that actually work?
and what else are you going to pull with that?
haha - no idea
yeah I did the 2 sheets that I did with an old old flatblade screwdriver and hammer, dug away at the wood until I could get the claw under the nail, and then just used the hamme
and let me tell you, it sucked
use a dremel - cut out the nail head - then pry up the plywood around the edges
and then how do I get the nails out of the joists?
17:33
plyers
someone tried patenting the idea
"Abstract: The electric magnetic remover will pull the nails from the wood or any surface and hold the item in place; at the same time the shingles will be discarded in whole, easier and cleaner to pick-up. There's a power indicator to help the worker to adjust the electric power to be used to pull out the nails or staples. This electric magnetic remover can also be equipped with a suction lightweight jet tub and have its own carrying container for all the nails and staples it sucks up..
17:58
when i ust to work at praxair, for people we didnt like, we'd say "stop breathing. your wasting the product"
they should use hydrogen - then we can have fireworks at the end using just a zippo
18:18
@Aaron Don't forget the circular saw: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/20932/…
The circular saw would be my first choice, just use a straight edge on the side that you want to keep and run the saw base against the straight edge.
use a level as a strait line
and I'd also suggest taping the finished surface to minimize roughing up the finish
per mike holmes last night, cut on the back side so the saw blade coming up through the surface comes through the back and doesn't splinter the front
SE should get him to do a hour or 2 session of DIY to answer questions
like gizmodo has been doing with certain people in the tech industry
Funny, I don't see Sparr in the chatroom:
1
A: What tools would I need to cut this kind of wood?

SparrYou can make straight cuts parallel to an existing edge by using a circular saw with a guide. To make the bottom edge of the cut clean, be sure the saw does not cut much more deeply than the thickness of the material. You can also put tape on the cut line, before cutting, to prevent the saw fr...

that's true, I forgot the circular saw, I haven't used one of those in a long time
18:26
i dont understand that image
why, because it's a crazy left-hander ??!!
the blade spins front to back, but it appears to be attached to a guide that goes from left to right
@Aaron you win the chatroom today!
oh oh oh - his right hand is on a guide thats following the edge of the wood
so... upvote @Aaron who is my internet friend and his answer is more complete and aaron has more rep, or upvote some dude with low rep and suggested 1 of the missing tools?
me, myself, I'm going to throw the guy an upvote
and to be honest, the circular saw is more than likely the right answer
The question I have, is do I add the circular saw to my answer, because it may not work for a variety of reasons (maybe edge is not yet straight?) so that my answer is more complete
true, but it looks like the countertop isn't attached to whatever yet - a table saw would produce a better result i think but isn't a tool that most people have on hand
18:41
@Tester101 Bicycle.
FWIW, when cutting my countertops, I used a jigsaw with a blade that was supposed to not shatter the formica. I think it's called a downstroke blade?
19:10
@Aaron You can clamp a straight edge onto the counter instead of using a guide that relies on the existing edge. The problem with the table saw is that a large counter top is difficult to maneuver. I tend to use that more for ripping a long narrow board.
‮I love xkcd :)
The even cooler part, you can copy what I typed, paste it, and it goes back to normal
you need to enter the unicode character
19:25
&202e; does this work ?
nope
what are you running, windows, mac, linux?
Unicode input is the insertion of a specific Unicode character on a computer by a user. Unicode characters can be inserted in two ways: from the screen by means of an applet from which one can select the character, or by certain key sequence on the keyboard. Many systems provide support for Unicode input in some form. A Unicode input system should provide a large repertoire of characters, ideally, all valid Unicode code points. This is different from a keyboard layout which defines keys and their combinations only for a limited number of characters appropriate for a certain locale. U...
Hold the option key while typing 202e
™º™´test
NO
f'it. shit like this makes me want to smoke. bbl
‮hahahaha
I wonder how annoying it would be if I configured auto correct to automatically add a u+202e after every linefeed :)
19:54
really considering Philips Hue led lights
i need 13 to do the kitchen and dining room, which means $800 between the starter kit and 10 additional bulbs :(
will probably wait for the bulbs to come down in price a bit
20:32
Bungaroosh (also spelt bungeroosh, bungarooge, bunglarooge, bunglarouge and other variations) is a composite building material used almost exclusively in the English seaside resort of Brighton between the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries, when it grew from a fishing village into a large town. but is little known elsewhere. The manufacture of bungaroosh involved placing miscellaneous materials, such as whole or broken bricks, cobblestones, flints (commonly found on the South Downs around Brighton), small pebbles, sand and pieces of wood, into hydraulic lime and shuttering it until it set. ...
Wikipedia articles I'd never know about if not for DIY.SE
happy thanksgiving guys - later.

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