I've lost the instructions to my Avid Outdoor Gazebo / Sun Shade, Model #1083. Avid has gone out of business, and the instructions are not available anywhere on the internet (though there are many questions on several other question-related sites).
I recently bought a house that was built in 1978, and it has a couple of garden faucets. These are not frost-free faucets, and that's not a huge concern for me because the house is located just south of Houston, TX.
What does concern me is that the one faucet needs some attention. The problems a...
I've noticed that we do seem to attract questions that are oriented to a specific task, when really, the question should be more general to the entire job. This question really should be the most general - What should I do about this leaky faucet.
Yeah, I'm really against 6" strips of mosaic because I honestly think it is "overdoing" things. They're accents because they should be accents, not large enough to almost be field tiles.
@KarlKatzke I've found a good way to deal with this is to split a tile on the top and bottom. It looks deliberate and nobody will know if the top tile is 1/2" wider than the bottom tile.
@KarlKatzke Easier done on intentionally staggered tiles, because you can't follow a straight line and watch it diverge. In a non-square install, staggered joints cover up a lot.
@MatthewPK No, we didn't. Since the ceiling is over 8" high and he's using a waterfall showerhead, we didn't see any need to. It is mold-resistant drywall with Kilz though.
@MatthewPK I agree, but it takes some materials and knowledge that we didn't really have at the time. Setting a ceiling with a bunch of little subway tiles and non-rapid-set thinset is ... difficult. We had enough problems on the underside tops of the niches.
The niches, by the way, were about half a week's worth of work on their own.
@TheEvilGreebo Note in the picture that I posted that where I stopped that day around the top was where I needed to "build up" thinset underneath the 2nd round of accent.
@MatthewPK These were filled and honed travertine.
Oh, yeah, those were on mesh backing. For the most part. We had to swap out a bunch for broken ones and bad cuts (glass tends to crack or spall when you hit it with a tile saw)
They were still thinner than the field tiles, so we had to build up thinset underneath them, let it harden, and then apply the tile with the required amount of thinset over the built up area.
@TheEvilGreebo Lay your field tiles and your accents next to one another ... make sure the tiles are the same thickness. In our case, the Travertine was 3/8" on average but the glass was 1/4" at most.
@TheEvilGreebo Not handy. The guy whose shower it is has the finished shots. My phone was generally in the radio at the time. He sucks at setting tile; I'm a perfectionist and loved working with the stone so I was doing a better job at the detail work in the niches than he was.
we were doing the math, our 8x10 tiles are actually exactly 8x10 when you add a 1/8 grout line on two sides which is perfect - we're gonna bring the tile out exactly 40" and finish with lowes.com/…
@TheEvilGreebo Oh, neat. I want to see that when it's finished. Although one thing I'm planning on doing is bringing out the tile in my bathrooms about a foot past the shower, because I always seem to end up with water spraying out past the curtain and getting the baseboard groaty.
@Aaron If you've ever seen it in real life, it looks really bad.
It's worth the time to build up the area for the accents; I use a scrap tile as a "jig" and just make a 1/8" deep cut in it, apply some thinset to the wall, and scrape it off with the "jig"
nod But the OSB will pull apart if someone falls hard against the knee wall. You'll need to have at least one or two of the screws holding the knee wall at the bottom sunk into structure.
I've seen two ways ... one is to plunk down the deck mud, then plunk the bath tub into it to leave an imprint and then take the tub away until the mud hardens.
The other way is considered cheating, but you basically make plywood 'ribs' for the bottom of the tub every 3" or so, perfectly formatted to the shape of the bottom of the tub at that spot, and glue 'em in place.
Not to say those are the right ways to do it, but those are the two ways I've seen it done, the latter where the floor wouldn't support the tub+water+mud weight.
so i i make sure the tub stringers and apron panel will line up to make the tub level, check the fit, pull the tub, mix and slap the mud in the footprint area, put the tub back in... do I put weight in the tub to set it in place?
then remove the tub again, let mud dry
and work on drywall while the mud dries
(or green-board - just to set off some alarm bells ;) )
You should probably press down on the bottom of the tub and make sure that it's set into the deck mud, and you might want to build a "containment area" for the deck mud outside of the footprint of the tub out of 2x4s set up so if you made it a little runny it doesn't move after you're done with it ... but yeah, you're basically stamping the bottom of the tub into a piece of sidewalk.
Just make sure before you pull the tub back out that it's set all the way down on the 1x4s
I think his worry is less the water capacity difference and more the weight of the tile and the deterioration of the former floor and joists due to plumbing leaks.
Here's my thinking ... pull the flooring in the next room at least until you get to the place where there's a wall below that can be load-bearing. Then sister the joists with a full run from that wall to the edge of the house.
Glue & screw the sistered joists. You only really need to do it for two joists.
Either way, the sistered joists need to be supported from one load-bearing wall to the other ... you can't just sister the joists halfway because you end up moving the point where it'll bow/crack to the end of the sistered piece.
Yeah, that's a better option, but I wasn't sure that was open. ;)
OK... I guess my point was, if you remove the soffit using a sawzall, and just remove the lighting as you go and cap it off, will anything else fall off the wall?
I am considering my options for a renovation project which will require substantial changes to my central heating and domestic hot water system. I was considering going a thermal store with a biomass boiler (wood pellet) and solar thermal, to supply:
domestic hot water
high temperature water fo...
I can .. but it's a) sort of self-defeating and adds a bunch of complication, b) it sounds like they're trying to minimize use of electrical power in the system.
The real answer is that "this isn't a DIY project" and he needs to consult with the manufacturer and an engineering firm and/or HVAC firm to have it installed.
Hot water radiators aren't really very efficient. If he's dealing with a boiler and trying to go with a system that isn't dependent on electricity, then he's probably actually looking at steam and just doesn't know enough yet to know the difference.
I've lost the instructions to my Avid Outdoor Gazebo / Sun Shade, Model #1083. Avid has gone out of business, and the instructions are not available anywhere on the internet (though there are many questions on several other question-related sites).
I am considering my options for a renovation project which will require substantial changes to my central heating and domestic hot water system. I was considering going a thermal store with a biomass boiler (wood pellet) and solar thermal, to supply:
domestic hot water
high temperature water fo...
