Hi I have a Metal table with two Arms that protrude outwards and Up of which you can place a cup and small plate on or Similar (Great for keeping the main table clear) but one of the Kids fell and broke Part of the arm, now Super Glue is not Stromg enough and Im trying to find an extreamly hard B...
Actually, I was a lego kid and my inner geek had to wait until I grew up. Since you probably don't have the rep to see it, I had actually closed a nearly identical question where the fact that it was an Enterprise "D" was in bold, stressing the fact that it was a hobby project.
Hi I own a Star Trek Collection and heaps are the Various Ships made out of various Metals , One is extremely old Grey model of the Enterprise "D" Next Generation and is Made out of a heavy Metal and the Base is a Different type of Metal (One of The pins that protrude from the Stand and that usua...
some stuff i just cant grasp :( why even if i create a proper rss feed with php, do i still need to use something like feedburner to turn it into an actual rss feed? or am i just missing something
Stack Exchange is looking to have some fun for the holidays by giving people hats for various tasks around the site. These, unfortunately, aren't real hats, more like holiday badges that you can see on your gravatar. They hosted a holiday hat bash on the Gaming site last year, and have asked if o...
Since the red wire is already being used for the outlets, you'll need to run a pair of 3 wire cables from the existing switch box to the location in the garage where you want these light switches.
This is what you'll likely have to do:
Here are some other options:
Image Source
I don't necessary agree with the wire colors, but it shows the basic idea.
@Tester101 Its better than what the last guy who owned my house did. He tried to wire a three way switch to a two-way. He screwed one of the travelers to the ground screw. The electrician working on the three way downstairs flipped the switch when his hand was touching the metal box and he got zapped something fierce
Sounds like there was no ground connected to the switch ground terminal (since the traveler was connected), and the switch's yoke was not in contact with the grounded metal box (which happens with recessed boxes).
@Tester101 @BMitch I am going to have to install two ceiling fans in the new house as soon as they give me the keys and the painters have finished. Usually you can just wire those as if they were any regular luminaire correct?
There are two common ways to wire ceiling fans (with light kits). 1.) Tie the fan hot and light hot together with the switched hot. This means the switch turns both the light and fan on/off. 2.) Connect light hot to the switch. Connect fan hot to a different switch, or unswitched hot wire. This allows the fan and light to work independently.
They make braces that will fit up through a standard ceiling box hole, and then expand and stab into the joists. But you'll have to remove the old box to use them.
Then you simply mount the ceiling box to the brace.
My new home is almost done being built, and one of the extras I asked for was for two of the rooms to have junction boxes in the ceiling suitable for hanging a ceiling fan in the future.
The light fixtures haven't been installed yet so I can see inside the junction boxes but can't really disting...
@Tester101 In all seriousness, falling ceiling fans can be a dangerous hazard, and can cause exposed electric wiring. I would wager it is probably more common than injuries from appliance casing ground faults.
so I would be surprised if nothing exists in the NEC regarding this
i have actually climbed a ladder to change a light bulb in a ceiling fan and got hit in the head with the blades. although it wasn't pleasant, it didn't hurt too much
perhaps requiring new braced junction boxes to have some easily distinguishable feature that allows them to be told apart
@lsiunsuex They are pretty heavy, and many fans sit right above peoples beds. Would you want something that heavy falling on your head while you were asleep?
@maple_shaft I doubt there is anything in NEC specifically about hanging ceiling fans.
314.23 Supports. Enclosures within the scope of this article shall be supported in accordance with one or more of the provisions in 314.23(A) through (H).
314.27(A) Boxes at Luminaire Outlets. Boxes used at luminaire or lampholder outlets in a ceiling shall be designed for the purpose and shall be required to support a luminaire weighing a minimum of 23 kg (50 lb).
(B) Maximum Luminaire Weight. Outlet boxes or fittings designed for the support of luminaires and installed as required by 314.23 shall be permitted to support a luminaire weighing 23 kg (50 lb) or less. A luminaire that weighs more than 23 kg (50 lb) shall be supported independently of the outlet box unless the outlet box is listed and marked for the maximum weight to be supported.
(D) Boxes at Ceiling-Suspended (Paddle) Fan Outlets. Outlet boxes or outlet box systems used as the sole support of a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan shall be listed, shall be marked by their manufacturer as suitable for this purpose, and shall not support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 32 kg (70 lb).
For outlet boxes or outlet box systems designed to support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 16 kg (35 lb), the required marking shall include the maximum weight to be supported.
Instead I use removable filters in the returns and dampers to redirect heating and cooling to the floor that needs it (heat the basement, cool the upstairs)
we clearly still have an insulation problem, even with the new furnace
we've noticed the spare room we're working on right now is the warmest (which is directly over the kitchen which was completely remodeled) and the other 2 bedrooms are over the dining room and living room, which have never been fully gutted
as the house is ballon style, i think cold air or hot air is coming up through the walls from the first floor that isn't insulated so well
right, but i think because the walls on the first floor aren't as well insulated as they are upstairs, air leaks in
all the walls that we've opened have this rigid white foam in them that clearly was blown in, has hardened, cracked and now there are mammoth air gaps in the walls
on the inside of the exterior walls, there are holes, about 3 inches? that were drilled and filled to blow it in - we've seen them in almost every cavity
the white stuff inside that wall - all rooms are / were like that - its rigid (takes some effort to break it with your hands) and everywhere we have seen it, its compacted itself - doesn't fill the entire cavity
@lsiunsuex I see... those cracks might have happened when you removed the lath. That would be my guess. Cracking suggests that it is expanding and contracting rapidly with heat, which is exactly the opposite of what insulation is intended to do
on the first floor in the dining room, the room had a beed board with a chair railing - when we went to refinish the hard wood floors, we decided to remove the beed and chair rail - when we did this, we ended up destroying the plaster and lath - so in the dining room, we cut with a circular saw, all around the room, 4 feet from the floor and used drywall there instead of trying to repair the plaster
because we were finishing the floors and i was out of money cause i had just done the kitchen, we opted not to gut the entire room
when we removed this plaster and lath and the foam insulation from the cavity (mind you, only 4 feet from the bottom) the foam that was in the top of the wall slid down on us
so, over time, this insulation, whatever it is, contracted, doesn't fill the cavity anymore and the walls are not air tight
so i think because the insulation of the walls on the first floor in the dining room is rather shitty, its making the 2nd floor room above the dining room cold because of heat / cold transfer
it could also be that who ever sprayed the insulation didn't spray enough in the holes to fill the entire wall. This is why blown cellulose fiber is better for blowing into wall from the outside
i guess a different question i have / should ask someone - using a laser thermometer - aimed at a properly insulated exterior wall - what should the temperature be? cause when the house is heated to 68, my laser reads low 50's in the dining room - haven't taken a temp of the room we just did
which all steams back to a question i had a week ago - how much money do i sink into this house until i say f' it and move on haha :(
the floors are equally cold and we have a basement - i get low 50's on the floors also
(all hardwood except the kitchen which is porcelain )
i'll spend money on fixing the insulation / making it warmer - i just need to figure out how to fix it
i'm considering the radient heating stuff you put in between the floor joists as all my floors are already finished for the first floor as i can access the underside from the basement but is that the answer? keep feeding the house more heat? i'll still loose it if its not insulated
the under floor radient electronics is no joke - home depot had a mat 16 inches by 7 feet or so around $200 - x 10 or so floor joists thats quite expensive just for 1 room
Looking to find the best methods using economical (low budget) materials.
Note: "Green-friendly" is a plus.
Also, I'm interested in hearing & learning about materials & methods that promote longevity.
1) I'm living in a 3rd floor raw factory space. 3000 square feet & drafty. Concr...
I am installing 1/2" copper pipes for my own new gas heater. The pipes need to pass around corners that are full of obstacles. I am not a professional plumber but know that I normally would need to use various kinds of compression fittings to connect pipes in order to go around the obstacles.
...
i used continue once in php - worked out well - whats wrong with goto ?
although i'd wonder how that would work if you had multiple includes - would it be goto line # in the main file or would it take into account includes? and what about javascript? do those line numbers get accounted for in the goto? what about echoing strings with <br>'s in them? i'm so confused (again)
Looking to find the best methods using economical (low budget) materials.
Note: "Green-friendly" is a plus.
Also, I'm interested in hearing & learning about materials & methods that promote longevity.
1) I'm living in a 3rd floor raw factory space. 3000 square feet & drafty. Concr...
I am installing 1/2" copper pipes for my own new gas heater. The pipes need to pass around corners that are full of obstacles. I am not a professional plumber but know that I normally would need to use various kinds of compression fittings to connect pipes in order to go around the obstacles.
...
