@BMitch That had sorta been what I was wondering. I mean you can smooth out an 1/8" and make it look nice, but it would take me a long time and I've done hundreds of hours of mudding. I can't imaging someone just starting out being able to do anything but slap it on.
heck, I'm pretty sure we were supposed to get the floor leveled, but I can feel the rise and fall as I go between the various foundations (from the different renovations)
considering how much this place has been renovated over the years, I can't imagine how they'll ever get it to pass a blower test, I see expanding foam everywhere
we had a half dozen people working on some 3rd story windows years back, you have to shove the thing entirely out of the house and then put it back in from outside, and the people on the ladders can't really reach out to hold the first end that's shoved out. Exciting isn't the right word for it
@SteveJackson that said, I will post stuff from my Great Ikea Assembly project. Which I'll be doing after work all next week, as i'm working an event this weekend.
Actually, while y'all are here... does anyone have any suggestions for where I might find the 14' drywall panels that US gypsum and other manufactures claim they make
@SteveJackson no, just curled up on the couch with the puppies. Even better than beer.
No projects from me this week, I'll be opening up the attic floor this weekend to run some new cable for a porch light. diy.stackexchange.com/questions/9478/…
@NiallC I'd just ask at a big box if you have one nearby. I had to custom order the fire-resistant stuff before - wasn't a big deal. I'm sure there's a minimum order size though, hopefully you don't need one sheet.
@NiallC I'd go for 8', keep staggering the joints in different places to use up the last partial piece.
whenever I try to use a full board that's a tight fit for anything other than a floor to ceiling piece, I end up with bad gaps because something wasn't square, and the corners get beat up trying to get it into place.
Nothing much to update on the project front. Got the expensive restoration glass fitted, but with the weather turning and me back at work it's been slow progress on the windows
@BMitch I'll see what I can do (within reason) to get you closer to 10K. @Tester101 is nearly there too. Having 4 10K users will make things a lot smoother.
@BMitch I'd vote on 9 of your answers (if I could find 9 I didn't already upvote), but last time I tried bumping people up the system took all the votes away :(
@Tester101 You need to take your time, do it too quickly and the system thinks you're engaging in vote fraud. Do a couple every hour (but don't say I told you that)
I'd like to get to 10K, if only for personal pride - it will be the 5th site I've made 10K on :)
@Tester101, I'd like to upvote this one just for the picture, but since I'm pretty sure the fire rating of osb and plywood are pretty similar, I held back.
It could be that they are trying to slow down a fire from spreading. The material at the edges might be more fire resistant, so the fire will spread to adjacent buildings more slowly, allowing the occupants more time to escape. You might be able to verify this by checking the local fire codes fo...
@BMitch though I have burned both in bonfires, and I will say OSB burns faster. The fire actually burns through it, where it burns from the edges in on plywood.
You can test it out... cut a 1'x1' piece of each (OSB, Plywood), and hold a blow torch to the center. the torch will bun through the OSB faster, while the plywood will mostly deflect the flame.
@BMitch Couple advantages I can think of - whatever you did is probably not the stupidest thing they've seen that night. Also, no where to go but up :)
I still can't get over you Americans calling plaster "mud". I have to think every time what it is you're talking about. Dry wall (for plasterboard) is OK for some reason.
@BMitch Oh right - so it's solid wall with a drywall skin? It actually makes sense - it's easier to run cables through the gap than have to dig out a channel in the brick
@Tester101 That would be expensive to get done these days. We replaced the moulding in our hall with precast plaster of paris
@ChrisF load bearing is just a standard wall, doubled up top plate for fire/structure at joints, but it's more about where you place them and carrying the load to the joists and next floor.
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