I store all my pics on the sd card and all my contacts are gmail....if my phone died, I just need to reinstall apps on the new one.
Sorry to hear that. I end up tinkering for like a month with every new phone to custom boot loader, os, etc. It's always a pain. Phone tinkering sucks.
The G3 with the 20 minutes battery, the ZUltra permanently warped to the shape of my ass (I didn't know glass could bend!) and the original Note minus the pen but plus a massive battery with cover which the Hulk could use to end the moon.
@SuspendedUser hah I checked my collection the other day..... A motorola flip from 1994, a nokia 6120 from 1998, and my current phone is a nokia 6310i from 2002 and still in use.
I dropped it some time back and the screen broke, so one new screen and back later it was working OK
then my daughter stood on it, so it has no back at all now.
and now the mics given up
and the cameras are so full of dust they're worthless
so I'm using a nokia the number of which escapes me, but is from the MS era
looks like early 90s though
and in a box in cambodia there's a nexus 5 with a broken power button, which went mouldy in storage, and a htc desire that's just too slow to anything worthwhile with
previous to that, I had a nokia n95 and sony erikson t610
You ought to put some phone screen protector on your fine bone china floors mate.
How do you manage to keep it charged? When I had one of those phones that were useless for internet I forgot to charge it for months. No reason to turn it on, and it doesn't make a sound when dry.
I used to buy all the screen protector and case garbage. Then I realized I rarely enough drop my phone that it isn't worth it. The screen get buff scratched slowly, but usually by the time it starts bothering me it's been a year and it's time for a new one.
I like a slim case, such that there is a rim around the screen and it doesn't touch the surface it is placed upon. This avoids most of the scratches.
Perhaps I ought to ask how to correctly measure brake drop. Saw two different ways.
Oh, just asked Sheldon: "The effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that the brake shoes are adjustable, typically over a 10-15 mm range.) "
I use my e-reader for most of the reading, it integrates an offline reading app. I just click on the phone on 'share to pocket' and sync my ereader and have comfortable off-line reading.
is prodcut advise ok here in chat? (re written gist of del. msg.)
OEM prices sure, Consumer prices they are usually more expensive than Shimano Tiagra and below. However, I've only found Tektro and Dia-Compe long reach calipers.
I have the Tektro long arms on my commuter (which I no longer can ride after my accident). They were just fine, with emphasis on 'fine' being a gradation.
I just check total costs getting drop bars. Considered also cow-horns, but read that breaking with those reverse levers is bad all the time. Better to be able to got at least to the hooks for decent braking. If hoods doesn't work properly, i get an interrupter for the front.
well, sale, regular price is 22. There's no question about reliability with them. It's their own house brand, stuff you get as default with their bikes.
I heard practically everything costs twice as much in NZ.
:-(
Wow, reviews for a Kenda tire sound horrible, rough translation "Tire as light and supple as a Marathon with the puncture resistance of running directly on inner tubes."
I was tempted to try a yellow one for only 6 euro. But no.
