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12:42 AM
@crasic Not really an option as a freelance engineer. Can't come to a customer and say "Oh, yeh, no, in this simulated environment X or Y everything works, but on your x86 32bit/64bit native Win Server, Win XP (yes!), Win 2000 (YES!), Win 7, Win Vista, Win 8, oh probably, just try it...
Though in honesty I try to avoid having to develop for windows native. But if they say their team uses MS VS to make the software and I am making the interface to the hardware as well (often) I still am not going to be the pisser frustrating everything with miniscule incompatibilities and/or weird path names, because that's my bread they can take away on a moments notice
Which then is a nice vicious circle with being used to using steam in Windows :-)
 
@crasic -- I'm wondering if SFU/Interix is still around, somewhere
 
 
9 hours later…
9:20 AM
Tissue
@PlasmaHH happen to know a close-to-border German Alu-Extrusion profile supplier? Like those that get used a lot in Open Hardware projects
 
@Asmyldof nope, also I wouldnt really expect one to exist at all
 
How come?
Usually you Germans have stuff like that for either better or similar prices, but with better shipment terms.
Insane, but true. Getting your metal rods from Köln is better than anywhere in NL, because shipping for > 1.7m is much more affordable with courier + good prices. But they don't do luminiums
On the bright side, my new high quality silicone flexible wire is in the care of UPS, so it'll be here soon!
 
9:35 AM
ah you mean just bars, not full extruded cases?
I know that airbus once ordered big stuff from sapa but probably because it is near bremen and not particularily because they are the best/cheapest or anything,... and I dontk now if bremen qualifies as near the border for you
 
Depends on their shipping charges :-D
For cases to size I use protocase
Very convenient, decent tool and very good support staff
 
what prices?
 
Depends on design and quantity
You can download their Protocase Designer, if you enter real information in the registration box you can use an instant-quote system
To date for any order 3 pcs or more the instant quote & final quote were always within 95% or the final was lower
Undoubtedly there are companies that are cheaper, but this process is brilliant
 
well of course it depends on design and quantity... just some rough examples to get a ballpark figure
i.e. if its worth having a look or if I should continue drilling square holes into cheap chinese case parts
 
You use their Java tool to design prints and laser cut-outs and all and then you know what you'll get without someone trying to turn a 2D sketch into a box and all the confusion about wall thicknesses etc
hang oin brb
3 deliveries at once :"-)
@PlasmaHH Just ordered a cold rolled steel L-shaped case with powder coating, metric fasteners, seam welds, 4 pieces of 424mm x 220mm x 120mm, with pressed in metric stand-offs for PCB mounting and cable routing, 64 cut-outs in front panel and 2 colour print, adjusted to match top-powdercoat, 2 cut outs on back and about 30 cut-outs on both sides in total. Total cost including shipment and mutli stage verification and full support was $980
 
9:55 AM
hm, that would be on the more complex and of the scale I guess, not a bad price for that
 
Well, because they use laser cutting and save on all the back and forth between me and an in-house CAD engineer, usually the larger cases aren't exponentially more expensive than the small ones.
 
but if I would be doing prototypes that need that much cutouts it would probably constantly moving so that it would be better to have some drilling tools available to change it each day ^^
 
Of course, the smaller ones are at a price scale that makes it easier to order 20, 30 or 50, shich due to mass ordering then still remains under or near $1000-ish
That's the difference you have to consider of course. I almost always design the PCBs so that they fit a purpose as small as possible, then design a case for it and now with protocase that is soooo easy that I have left hand work behind for half the jobs. That means that I then pay more attention to the PCB as well with regards to connectors, so it becomes a self reinforcing loop sort of
 
50 wouldnt really be the amount for prototypes... unless you want lots of them to be field tested or something
 
Protocase is just a company name... they'll happily assist you in a 1000unit run as well
But, I have had 0-series of 10 to 100 units, where it is no point having a die-cast or press mold made
 
10:01 AM
did you ever do soemthing like frontpanels out of pcbs for prototypes?
 
And for me, of course, the balance is different
I did, yes
With signal fingers and all, even, for QTouch buttons and rev-mount LEDs
You've seen my business card on Dave's show, you know I like PCB art :-)
 
yep. I think you should up that one and get one a bit thicker with embedded chips inside the pcb, a very thin lcd and some thermoelectric generator that runs from the heat of your palm if you hold the card ;)
 
V3.2 is already designed.
Just waiting till: 1. Everyone I might meet has seen my current one, or one like it; 2. I run out
 
how many do you have? send one to all videobloggers around the world, would they run out then? ^^
 
This one was quickly deisgned in about an hour or three (including the morse code module that translates static sentences into blinking) for a trade show
V3.2 will have more yay-ness that Nerdier people who've been there, done that will enjoy
Such as PCB translucency. Maybe, depending on cost for 500 or 1000 pcs, embedded components, possibly full-colour silkscreen on one side
Topside will be green/gold/white, of course, for the recognisable, but maybe bottomside will be matte white with full colour print
tented vias, added to the design th day after I sent out the Gerbers :-)
 
10:10 AM
which reminds me of one board I have seen somewhere and wanted to research where and hwo to build it... it had soldermask in multiple colors, for each module/section one...
 
And, obviously, it'll be a 4 or 6 layer FCPCB :-)
That's been an option for years, either screen printed or DDP depending on batch size, but you are going to want to: 1. do a huge run, or 2. have lots of budget
 
they probably had 2, it was on some demo board
 
DDP silkscreening isn't that expensive anymore and I can easily spend $1.5 to $2 per business card, even if it only ends up giving me two contacts in a 24 month period
 
hm, nice, 0.3mm thick eink displays, those would probably work fine with such a business card... embedding some controller in the pcb wont be hard either... now for the thermoelectric part... any ideas? all I can find is the thick car fridge kind...
 
Hah. I'm not going to tell you about the rest of it, silly, if I tell everyone now, why would I send another five to dave when they are done?
 
10:16 AM
ah, there we are, micropelt, the name fits well
 
The electronic design is complete :-P
 
totally ^^
 
already made a proto/proof of concept at 2x size
I meant before you started talking. :-P
I'm off to the office now
See yas later
 
hm, I am wondering if there are fab houses that will drill you a rectangular 1206 or 0805 sized hole and then copperplate the sides of it so that you can solder your caps inside the pcb.. possibly even leaving a little bit of pcb material on the other side so that the hole wont get completely through...
 
10:31 AM
gah, there is an image of a money card in my brain where the amount of money on it is displayed using some body heat powered thing... but it is totally detached, not even a possible date or status...
 
10:41 AM
@PlasmaHH: Hi
 
10:53 AM
@PlasmaHH to your question/pondering: Yes. The copper plating is easy and the holes usually get milled for large, lasered or water-jetted for small. Down to 0402 is possible. Copper plating is just done by making contacts right at the edges and indicating a plated side. It's not as cheap as plated holes to do, but you can even have them do that on the absolute card edges.
Though that's insanely fragile and a waste of money, basically. But you don't need plated edges if the components are flush with the surface, because solder will bridge a 2mil gap easily
 
@Asmyldof: hi
 
@Asmyldof but the amount of contact the solder makes is essentially only the traces thickness then, that sounds even more fragile
 
What you could do at a lower cost is a partially milled stackup, where you have a line milled out through a series of plated holes on all but the very last layer. You have each component placed between two plated hole remnants neatly in a row. Make 3 or 4 rows and one square cut-out for an MCU and it's actually reasonably affordable
@Onthewaytosuccess if you have something to ask or say, just go ahead.
Not if you have a nice plated solder-mask less contact edge along the gap
like a 10mil wide SMD pad just on the edge
10mil x 60mil strip or such
strong enough to hold in a 0603 at least
 
@Asmyldof: could you take a look at this question, and give me a clear explanation ?
 
Oh! I arrived just in time for lunch
 
10:56 AM
hm, I am not sure if we are talking about the same thing and just dont get it, or if we really mean differnet htings... you have any images maybe?
 
0
Q: About induced current

On the way to successThis is a homework question that I have stuck for a while and couldn't able to come up with the correct answer. So here is the question, My thoughts towards this question When I move the rod PQ with a constant velocity ,the area of triangle RPQ inside the magnetic field increases . Once th...

 
@PlasmaHH no, because I am just now thinking about the options and which is the cheapest
but, if this is the hole you have made:
__
damnit
hole: [--]
 
we need a virtual whiteboard in here
 
Then you add two strips of solder-mask less copper on each end: ||[--]||
And make the hole such that a 0603 or whatever fits, but snugly. Only just without force
Then the solder will bridge to the copper islands on the surface
 
awwapp.com/b/ukfacsbbh can you see/use that?
 
10:59 AM
You can make the islands as small and large as you want
@PlasmaHH no, because I'm going to lunch now! I'll look later
 
ok.
 
@PlasmaHH: can you take a look at this question ?
0
Q: About induced current

On the way to successThis is a homework question that I have stuck for a while and couldn't able to come up with the correct answer. So here is the question, My thoughts towards this question When I move the rod PQ with a constant velocity ,the area of triangle RPQ inside the magnetic field increases . Once th...

 
@Onthewaytosuccess I'll look after lunch. Be prepared for judgement if there's a reason you haven't answers yet.
 
@Onthewaytosuccess no, I dont do homework, let alone yours.
 
@Asmyldof" : okay
@PlasmaHH: can't you give me some explanation
Just a way to proceed @PlasmaHH
@PlasmaHH: Oh
 
11:35 AM
@Onthewaytosuccess I will give you one hint: What is the current through a wire in a magnetic field, regardless of triangles, and how does it depend on its location inside a uniform field?
 
@Asmyldof to have that flush you would need to get down the solder thickness to about the soldermask thickness there..
 
@Asmyldof: When an E.M.F is induced there will be a induced current
 
@PlasmaHH You are aware that fluxed solder will flow in all directions in 3D over a limited distance?
As long as total PCB thickness isn't more than 0.5mm more than the part, it's fine. Even 1mm would be doable with reasonably normal paste
 
so you mean just apply not too much paste and everything is fine?
 
If the part is thicker: no issues, since the metalised end will stretch from top to bottom
Apply the normal amount of paste, even, probably
 
11:40 AM
@Asmyldof: Area of the wire inside a constant magnetic field is directly proportional to it's induced e.m.f, isn't it?
 
Unless you have many amps of current
 
I hope that I dont ^^
 
@Onthewaytosuccess the question is about current, not voltage
 
but a 20A current on a buisiness card sure sounds fun
 
@PlasmaHH In fact, this trick could be incredibly suitable for kelvin connections
Current on top, measurement on bottom
 
11:41 AM
@Asmyldof: Yeah, but the current is induced due to E.M.F induced , isn't that correct ?
@Asmyldof: Hello
 
@Onthewaytosuccess EMF is proportional to magnetic field inside the loop. What is that proportional to? What is the resistance of a....
If you are going to be petulant and impatient about it, this is EXACTLY where this ends
I can also just be doing my work
You know what, this **is** where this ends
 
@Asmyldof" Okay ,please wait
Can you give me some more hints
@Asmyldof: Don't be too harsh
@Asmyldof:hello
 
 
2 hours later…
1:44 PM
@PlasmaHH Our whiteboard still lives.
What will we draw next?
 
some device that will allow us to take over this little planet?
 
A huge butterfly net?
 
2:07 PM
good morning
 
@PlasmaHH, hide, there's a US-ican infiltrating our left-wing european discussion about butterfly nets...
Well...
My monologue
Actually, I grossly assume US-ican...
Very mad of me
....
/rewind
Hello!
Would you like some tea?
 
tea is fine but I'd prefer coffee
 
2:24 PM
hm, I wonder if one can come up with a better method for simple home pcb etching than with the toner transfer ... something not so fragile... and not requiring a 3d printer... although those get cheaper and cheaper...
 
Eh?
 
well, instead of using toner as the mask there are materials available that you can directly print onto the copper...
 
Oh, there's people already doing this....
And going bankrupt when marketing it
 
nah, dont watn to make a product, market is not big enough, more like instruction for setting it up at home. the toner transfer is already quite cheap for people to do. laser printers are cheap too. 3d printers not so much
 
2:41 PM
Okay
@PlasmaHH get a CD-printing enabled inkjet and formulate a water-resist ink for it that will not clog it. Look at Steadtler for inspiration, because Edding desintegrates too quickly in Sulfate etchants (personal experience)
 
I mean sure, there are 3d printers that specifically print with silver ink, but well, they are like 1600 bucks or so
 
You can even formulate CMYK inks and print your etch resist in full colour!
Super useful
 
I would be worried about the sharpness of the edges on inkjets
they claim incredible dpis but in the end the real resolution is usually not much more than 300dpi black/white
 
Depends on the inkjet
300dpi is 3 mil per pixel
...
well almost
sure, you'd like 1mil, for nice angled corners, but 6 mil traces with 3 mil dots is already doable
But there are flat-transport ink-jets that do a decent job given the right ink and right settings
 
yeah, I printed lots of cds with mine, it works good, and probably would print just as well on a pcb, given the right ink
but the right ink... is maybe the problem
 
2:46 PM
It's either getting a $800 printer with easy to figure out ink for 2.5mil-ish pixel size, or a $100 printer with a lot of chemical fiddling on a one time bases for the ink to get 1.5 ~ 2mil
The problem in water-resist types is often the way it dries and not really re-hydrates neatly with its own solvent, causing clogs, but I'm sure that can be fixed. As is, just pouring Steadtler refil into an inkjet will only work for one printing session, at the most, but I know there's some resist-inks for Canon and HP printers, but they may not flow nicely on smooth surfaces.
I'd be more than willing to pay $250 for a printer and $50 for the ink if it can print on a copper surface that is near-smooth and I'm sure given some engineering investment that can go down as market interest rises.
My current problem is the cleaning needed to get thermals to stick nicely and evenly. But for photo-resist is too much set-up, given that thermal only takes me put-in-cleaning; print-thermals; apply top and bottom thermal; etch; clean with light abbrasive.
 
hm, those direct silver printers use silver nitrade and ascorbic acid which will then cause silver nanoparticles to fall out... but either my conversion tool sucks or they can only get down to 25mil
 
If I can get "the best of both worlds" by buying, actually even a $500 printer and $100 ink, hell, I'm going for it
 
25mil == ??? mm ?
 
0.635
Chemical deposition of silver sucks for many reasons and should be abandoned as an idea before you even walk to a whiteboard.
And I'd be happy (continuing previous bit) to see my earlier investment leading to many hobbyists eventually being able to get the same for $100 + $25 per refil
 
why? because its too thin and doesnt stick very well?
 
2:54 PM
And because there's byproducts that you need to clean off, which gives problems, on account of, doesn't stick very well.
And because it'll stay in a porous structure because of the byproducts dramatically increasing reactivity
SilverOxide/SilverSulphate/etc don't cunduct awesomely, which means variadic characteristics of traces over time.
 
hm, there is somone who says that as a resist he uses ordinary ink from a printer, and while still wet blows toner dust onto it and shortly bakes that one
 
Sounds like a reasonable idea.
Even an automatable one.
But too fiddly-intensive for a real buy&use solution
 
well you could use a normal cd printing able printer, and then provide a box where you put that pcb in which does the dusting and baking. not much fiddling there.
 
If you can get a good, single ink droplet deposition system to deposit water-resist, that'd be a great way to get hobbyists to buy or build it
Point is, not all inks dry the same and at the same speed. Not all toners mix the same. Not all toners melt the same....
 
hm, some even say that 400% printing of pigment based ink can be baked into a resist...
of course you would provide your box with a list of toners good to use/test...
 
2:59 PM
With a good Stepper-motor system, if needed with gearing, you could possibly even skip the voltage-jetting and make it all DIY with a 40gauge needle or such
Still, environmentals and ink drying out before stuff gets to the box... I see forums upon forums of complaints and problems
 
that sounds like it would take a whole day to print one board
 
First version maybe.
I'm estimating with some community driven design, programming and testing on some ends you should be able to get to 1m2 per workday, which surely is enough for any protominded person
Use the Open Hardware CNC or.. eh.. liteplacer as a template and you inherit some cummunity from the start
sommunity*
damnit
 
1 mil isn't 1 mil though.
nor is 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6
from 7 or 8 it seems to settle towards being approximately increasing the right amount
A line-print test like that is very deceptive... it's the marketing speak of etch-tooling-tests
outflow would fuse a 16lane 1/3mil bus into a nice power-busbar :-)
 
hehe, yeah, I think a really good testpattern would be needed and a highres photo of it... maybe one day I will try this direct ink thing, though I dont konw if our new pritner has cd print capabilites too
 
3:08 PM
Unfortunately my office&lab only sports laser
Hardly ever need A3, let alone larger
So the one A4 colour laser HP quality machine is all I need
 
work office is laser only too, but at home I need to print on photo quality photo paper
 
My laserjet does a pretty spiffy job of photos
The old one was better, but didn't survive the move
Of course, not hyper awesome job, but for the three photos that I need with that in a year I'll contact a printer's :-)
Most work I print is of complexity/quality of our whiteboard.
I added the butterfly net by the way
 
yeah, I added the bug that escaped
 
o.O if that's a 0603 the bug is an infant fruitfly!
 
I need to do some nice real photo printouts from time to time, and also some proofing printouts with profiles from some printing services
I still havent found anyone who can print plasmahh.projectiwear.org/gallery/albums.php/panos/large/… the way I want it
 
3:17 PM
I don't really need to print any photos any more, really, but I do some times :-)
Most my proofing, if it still happens anyway, is done with colour corrected monitor and trust in the local printshops for the one book/booklet/flyer I ever have to have accurate colours
I like taking pictures way more than looking at them
I look at them to see if I did an acceptable job, or need punishment/training
 
I am still waiting for some budget to accumulate to get the camera I want ^^
 
That link you sent, what's your requirements? Here at the office I can't see anyway, but...
I think these screens are 20% NTSC :-D
 
roughly 200x55cm on transparent acryl
 
ah.
I may someone who's willing to put his contacts into trying, but I assume you want good black coverage and light-translucency for the yellows and such to make an optical play?
 
all I could find are either far too small or have prices high enough to hire a master painter o do it by hand
 
3:20 PM
Probably not going to get that right
+know ^^
 
exactly that is the goal, some illumination etc.
 
yeah, they're not geared for that.
They do make translucencies, but usually if light resist is needed that's a separate layer. If you are willing to spend a day aligning and sticking togther two or three layers yourself you could still do that
 
I did some test runs with little crops out of that to get an idea for how this all needs to be, but it turns out to be completely different between services :/
 
Yup, inks make a lot of difference
 
that image already has a light resist layer
obviosuly not the jpeg though
 
3:22 PM
Always go with services that know what they are doing in all regards, including where they buy ink and how and which
I think with 3 layers of film you can get a decent range of black to white in the picture
But it's fiddly work, and that's why a service saying "yup, we can make that" and being right is expensive
 
I have asked a lot and they were all like "yes, we can do that" and when I then further asked for opinions on if this or that would work better they are like "uhm, dont do this often, cant tell"
 
Yes, that's how shoddy services reveal themselves.
Good ones, like in any trade say either "yep, we'll need to ...." or "we don't know yet, but we could try if you're willing to commit to some experimentation"
 
also I tried looking around to find a print that looks good enough for me, and then ask who did it, but didnt come along one yet
 
You should find trade-show companies
They secretly know a lot of awesome shit
They learn because for tradeshows an Osram or an Atmel or a Philips says "fuck it, just, here's $200000, make me what I want, I don't care how"
 
sounds like they are used to getting money thrown at them, and will want that from me too ;)
 
3:28 PM
And then, greediness internally turns that into "let's learn this time how, and make sure next time we can do it with $1000 and make $199000 profit"
Not if you approach them the right way, especially not if it's a ... local company...
like not one with 25 offices in every major city, but one with an office+depot in a township just outside of a city.
 
hm,y eah, we should probably have tons of those companies
 
If they can't do it to a budget themselves they always know who can, sometimes because of a network, sometimes because one of their employees went freelance and now does the small stuff for them
 
time to head home. into the outside. at terrible temperatures
 
That's probably outside of your budget, but I have seen that been done
@PlasmaHH byes
Drive creamy
 
 
1 hour later…
4:45 PM
I am starting to get a bit frustrated with the Beaglebone community.
Every issue I have, I search and find where it's discussed on the Beaglebone Google Groups. Somebody reported the issue in 2013 or 2014. The main Beagle guy responded and asked for more information. The OP responds with the requested information. And then there's no solution or follow-up (maybe a couple other people saying they have the same problem).
 
@ThePhoton used to be a good start. Haven't been community bound for a while yet. Mainly from disuse
 
4:59 PM
Here's an example:
Beaglebone restarts instead of shutting down when 'shutdown -h now' is done.
Gerald replies but there's no resolution.
New users (me) still having the problem a year later.
What's really freqking crazy is that it shut down correctly the first 3 times I tried it this morning, but then failed (restarted instead) the next 5 times.
 
5:13 PM
@ThePhoton liked your trace impedance matching answer
 
@Asmyldof Thanx
 
@ThePhoton did you, perchance see any test points past the power supply input jack, possibly past the filtering, that you could probe at shutdown?
Seeing as this place facilitates that line of questioning :-)
It is possible a dump-spike triggers the reset circuitry
In which case some OS's may have the problem and others not, depending, even, on the state of updatedness
 
@Asmyldof That's an idea.
 
go from 80% CPU to 0% in microseconds and you get a spike, if the OS ramps down from 100% to 0% in a milisecond, no spike, no reset
 
I'm also thinking it may be temperature-dependent (why it worked 3 times first thing in the morning and then failed consistently after that). And I was suspecting the power management doohickey
 
5:18 PM
I have seen this happen in some production-series boards. Not brand-owned designs though
 
@Asmyldof It will probably start working again when I put the scope probe on int.
on it
 
HotFix would be: add a 50mA wasting resistor or current sink on the power after filtering if that's the cause
More power-saving hotfix would be a "slowKill" routine at power-down
Best hotfix is no hotfix but a fixfix
It is very rare though, so it might very well be something else
Just, popped into my head
I like it when that happens... the probe thing.
 
OK turning on my oscilloscope
 
I like it so much when it happens to me, I sometimes consider designing in a circuit running on pF resonance or dis-resonance just to make others enjoy it too... before I consider the ramifications of having junior engineers then do the measurements and then I switch to proper design, as which I get paid for.
 
This time it actually shut off.
When I had my probe on it.
 
5:26 PM
So then add negative 50pF onto it
AntiCap (tm)
Cycle test while capturing! Do it!
If the scope has sufficient data points, else it's probably pointless
Show me that 7V spike/wobble!
 
Worked again with no probe
Might need to use an oven
 
Show me that spike a-gai-ain.... Don't waste another minute on your lying. Doo'ndoo doo doooododooo
Soldering iron right on the chip! Do it! It won't hurt, I promise...
Except your wallet...
It'll hurt your wallet.
 
6:03 PM
@ThePhoton did it explode?
^.^ I'm going home. sunglasses mode
 
@Asmyldof Decided to try to solve the problem my boss wants solved instead.
 
6:26 PM
@ThePhoton bosses are so pointless.
:-)
I'm going home too, because I only see repeating questions and it is starting to piss me off no limit
I know I just said I was, and the too refers to a buffer in my head of Plasma saying that hours ago, but now I'm serious
And hungry
And peeved
So... see you later
 
@Asmyldof later
 
6:51 PM
anyone know if there are archived uboot manuals?
 
breaboarding is fun... "why does this simple ne555 circuit not work...oh wait its oscillating at 600kHz instead of 440... why? oh, one of the caps pins isnt connected..
@crasic from ww2?
 
@PlasmaHH No 2009
I always forget to put in the jumpers on the bottom strip
and wonder why my parts aren't getting power
 
@crasic why do you need an old manual? And I'm sure there are, somewhere
It's one of the few kinds of manuals that isn't semi-versioned inside my dropbox
Buying dropbox was bad for my HD space requirement, but very good for people asking "hey, do you still have the Atmel ???? datasheet from years ago and do you know where?"
 
7:23 PM
Solder bridge shorts output to rail, prevents circuit from working. News at 11.
 
7:33 PM
@W5VO Weird
 
I know, right? Some dingus did a crappy job soldering a chip to the board.
 
soldering should be forbidden. it causes so much tribles
 
It's nice when it works...
 
8:13 PM
@Asmyldof bootloader on the board is 2009.06 and the console commands have changed
I've been going through their git readme for that tag, most of its there
 
@crasic hohum. Time for an update by an engineer who'll make a nice composite set of project documentations at time of.
Re: Soldering: I found my first ever Tin-solder whisker the other day.
 
@Asmyldof interesting! any idea on the solder chemistry?
 
@W5VO No :'(
Only that the process was RoHS compliant according to the MFGr
 
@Asmyldof doc Documentation (don't expect too much)
 
.....
 
8:24 PM
eh whatever won't quote
directly from readme
 
Keeps ploinking me though
 
under ` Directory Hierarchy:
139 ====================`
sorry for ploinking
 
^.^
 
here is hoping that I can plop in 2015.0X and it will boot our junk
 
Everytime I look to the left I see my old laptop's screen and think to myself "How did I ever take that off the monitor to take to a customer and not get depressed...
Optimism. Yay
I should disconnect the internal monitor and stop using it
 
8:26 PM
Is it broken?
 
No. It's crap
So, yes really
 
SAM-BA!
 
SAM-BA is nice
Test your design out of the box
yay
 
DAS UBOOT is fairly functional
I'm impressed
more useful than GRUB
 
:-D
Wasn't that the point?
sigh I wish I had another speaker of the one I'm testing... I don't want to listen to "Van Gogh" saying the same thing over and over and over, I want to listen to music and/or watch TV
Welcome to Prinsenhagen blah blah blah
I'm going to shoot virtual people with my headset on to drown it out.
 
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