Tim_Stewart

👍

Ah, sorry, superuser.com/questions/1556557/…

@DavidPostill, any reason you didn't close one of theses as duplicates? I marked one when I saw you answered it.

Anyone getting "it's our fault" errors intermittently when trying to search the site?

Sorry, I meant the "not an answer" flag

I would have thought you would flag that as low quality? Isn't that what that flag option is for?

@JamsheedMistri, also the iPhones turn off the wifi to conserve battery...

@JamsheedMistri wouldn't it be -sP 10.10.10.0/24?

thank you sir, will do

well, i figured the people flagging it skimmed over both. it seemed obvious to me. ill wait to see what happens with the flag. thanks for answering journeyman!

i was just looking at, meta.superuser.com/questions/5825/…, is there anything you can do with what you believe to be a false duplicate? (other than ask the OP to clarify & flag it for mod attention?)

You can run dd-wrt or openwrt on them. It comes down to personal preference honestly. Dd-wrt is easier IMHO to get more complex setups going with less of a learning curve

But, yea you want one wrt1900 on each side of the bridge

That antenna should work, one on each side. You don't need two separate antennas on each side if you use this type because it's mimo. One on each would suffice.

Sorry, I didn't see this till now. Use the @username function to alert me through the message system.

Let us continue this discussion in chat.

Avoid 2.4ghz if you want 200+Mbps over the bridge, and not having to figit with it everytime a neighborhood router automatically picks a new channel. There are 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz hybrid antennas, unfortunately, they don't do great in each band as a result. Remember, any antenna you see, the higher the gain, the more directional the radiation pattern, and the better it will perform. The other options were because I think you are going to over your budget with all new equipment out of the box. I hope you got your money back from eBay. Buyer protection should have covered that.

Depending on what you think your time is worth, & skills with tools. (I also call this the cheapskate route) You could always go with the "cantenna" route. Use a cantenna calculator, and make it with PVC, use endcaps. (These have the added benefit of blocking up to 80% of adjacent noise)Then you only have to purchase the pigtails, n-females and grab some o-rings from a local hardware store. I helped a friend make a couple last year, they worked out way better then I expected, +14dbi gain. Each one took around 30 mins to complete and cost about 8 bucks in hardware.

Exactly, and yes it means if anyone is using it they are out of range. That's a good thing!

To be honest, if you use two of the 2.4Ghz yagis each side, (eBay ones totalling $44 for both sides) you could turn on beamforming and get decent results in the 2.4Ghz band. The distance between the two buildings is pretty trivial for outdoor antennas. (If you find multiple neighborhood routers on each channel in the 2.4Ghz band it could be an issue though) it all comes down to the local environment.

Is the new modem included in the $300 budget? If you have an Android to use, (phones wifi chipset has to be supported), grab wifi analyzer from the play store. Take a survey in-between the buildings on the 2.4ghz and 5ghz bands. Lemme see what I can find that will fit in your budget for 5Ghz. I've haggled two wrt1900ac's from eBay for dirt cheap, (under $40 each). be aware that used ones LEDs on the front dim over time. I doubt it will matter to you if it's going to be in the attic.

Avoid 2.4ghz if you want 200+Mbps over the bridge, and not having to figit with it everytime a neighborhood router automatically picks a new channel. There are 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz hybrid antennas, unfortunately, they don't do great in each band as a result. Remember, any antenna you see, the higher the gain, the more directional the radiation pattern, and the better it will perform. The other options were because I think you are going to over your budget with all new equipment out of the box. I hope you got your money back from eBay. Buyer protection should have covered that.

Exactly, and yes it means if anyone is using it they are out of range. That's a good thing!

Depending on what you think your time is worth, & skills with tools. (I also call this the cheapskate route) You could always go with the "cantenna" route. Use a cantenna calculator, and make it with PVC, use endcaps. (These have the added benefit of blocking up to 80% of adjacent noise)Then you only have to purchase the pigtails, n-females and grab some o-rings from a local hardware store. I helped a friend make a couple last year, they worked out way better then I expected, +14dbi gain. Each one took around 30 mins to complete and cost about 8 bucks in hardware.

To be honest, if you use two of the 2.4Ghz yagis each side, (eBay ones totalling $44 for both sides) you could turn on beamforming and get decent results in the 2.4Ghz band. The distance between the two buildings is pretty trivial for outdoor antennas. (If you find multiple neighborhood routers on each channel in the 2.4Ghz band it could be an issue though) it all comes down to the local environment.

Is the new modem included in the $300 budget? If you have an Android to use, (phones wifi chipset has to be supported), grab wifi analyzer from the play store. Take a survey in-between the buildings on the 2.4ghz and 5ghz bands. Lemme see what I can find that will fit in your budget for 5Ghz. I've haggled two wrt1900ac's from eBay for dirt cheap, (under $40 each). be aware that used ones LEDs on the front dim over time. I doubt it will matter to you if it's going to be in the attic.

@Asad Moeen, you may want to change router-2 to channel 1 if you haven't already, this should at least rule out neighboring interference.

Wired lan port to lan port? Do they both have the same ssid?

It can if something else is being assigned the same number, and that's likely because you have it set to the first address in the DHCP pool. Set it to .254 (last available in the IP address range) so you already have multiple routers? Update the question with a simple drawing of your setup. Routers, ISP device , SSID'S , channels, and how they are wired, etc

This answer explains some of the dynamics of 802.11 networks and csma/ca if you are interested. Essentially the Chromecast will have all other clients tied up in the red square of the algorithm flow chart. superuser.com/questions/1307203/… have you tried changing the channel of the router? Try changing to 1,6 or 11. Don't choose channels in-between those ones, it will exacerbate the issue.

It will have packet loss. Unfortunately, It won't back off from data transmission because the Chromecast can't hear the other clients trying to talk on the wlan. Collisions occur, and the Chromecast will continually re-transmit "lost frames" which are actually collisions it hasn't detected. This is a defect in 802.11 radio transmission. Essentially the hidden node is using up available air time, and not allowing the csma/ca algorithm to function properly.

I usually set it closer to the default value, this insures small frames aren't included in the RTS/CTS as it can negatively affect performance of small burst packets. You can add another access point on the other side of the house bridged to the first router. This will totally solve the issue and provide more bandwidth to all devices.

No, it means it will wait for that sized frame before it uses the ready to send/clear to send flags, it usually means it will be a fragmented packet. You might want to give this a read, resources.infosecinstitute.com/… you should be tweaking it in small increments and checking performance. Each time you change you may want to reboot the router.

there are not one but three "largest" 802.11 frames corresponding to WEP, TKIP, and CCMP -- 2346(wep), 2358(tkip-WPA), and 2354(ccmp-aes-WPA2). 1500 is the default for Ethernet.

Try with the default. It's usually 2347, you can lower it to tune performance.

You have pretty much described the issue perfectly. The Chromecast devices have a antenna printed on their circuit board. +0dbi... Your other devices are close to the AP, the problem will be the hidden node problem. You confirmed this when you said moving it closer to the other devices mitigates the issue. What does the front or back have to do with Omni directional antennas on the router?

Ah, the plot thickens. This sounds like it may be the "hidden node problem". If you have the option in your router to turn on RTS/CTS, try enabling it and restarting the router. Let me know if that helps.

What version is the TP-Link WR-840N? It should be located on the underside sticker.

or you could just edit the question to be on-topic... The arguments you present are pretty much useless, and yes we do expect you to do some basic google searching for any question. BTW yes, its more efficient for a Q&A database to have all 11 questions separate and properly categorized.

Sorry to hear it. At least it was a good exercise in Cisco administration. BTW, if you haven't already checked it out, GNS3 is very good for virtual labs. I consider it priceless for exam practice

Correct

Try with a Cisco cf-flash if that's how you are storing it. See if it makes a difference

If it doesn't pass the checksum with a known good image (image must be from the same model and revision) then it probably has some sort of Mobo failure.

Pumpkin tftp is free. Have a known working router send the image to the pumkintftp server. Then have the bad router (in recovery mode) retrieve the image from the tftp server

Use tftp, it's much easier

Google turned up answer to that in seconds

Seems lazy

Do you have the option in the router settings to turn off ping /icmp on the WAN interface? If you do try it and report back. This is sounding more and more like someone trying to nmap ports

Erm, try using a hash checked live boot, like livebooting a clean Kali image. Totally disconnect every device from the network. Now MIM the router wan connected to the internet. This sounds to me like something on the network may be comprised. Either the router firmware itself or a node on the network. Start eliminating the possibly devices. My guess is you will find a device with malware/spyware.