The fruits of yesterday's labor

Note: the crank pulley bolt was a little loose for my 24 mm socket, but the 23 mm wouldn't fit. Is it a 15/16" bolt?

I was glad to finally have an excuse to buy a three-jaw puller. The cordless impact worked a treat as well

@Zaid - it should be metric, but not sure what size. I'll check mine later. For some reason I'm thinking the stock hub bolt should be replaced when removed. I'll double check later as well.

@Zaid that's what it be!

I cannot get over how nasty that engine is (was), lol!

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Would you believe it? I actually had the 15/16 socket but didn't remember I had one when I went to take it off

Consequently the 24 mm socket left some love marks on the bolt

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 i am disgusted at the state of the engine. I don't understand where all of this oil residue came from, especially in the timing chain area

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 now that you know it's a three-bolt cam do you have anything else to add to the shopping list?

It's going to take about a month for shipments to clear so the sooner I place the order the better

@Zaid - You need to run a list so I know what you are planning on getting ... or have we talked about this already? Been a while ;-)

@Zaid - I think the biggest thing your engine suffered was neglect.

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 yes, I starred the Fel-Pro stuff a while back

You're planning on getting a complete engine gasket kit, right?

Yup. Along with valve stem seals

yup, I remember talking about that now.

Bearings are a must, for both mains/rods, but you'll need to see what shape the crank is in before you can order them.

I'd suggest you get it out of the engine as soon as possible and down to the machine shop. You could just plan on going .010" under on both rod/main and order them up front.

Taking material off of the journals will actually net you horsepower.

And if the journals are left with a radius, it can be more resistant to stress risers as well.

Sigh. More disassembly

I don't know where I'll put stuff now

Oh yah. You want that thing completely torn down, my brother.

LOL!

Man cave getting crowded?

You bet

You should take the cherry picker out of there. Give you a ton more room. Put it out on the curb so the Popo can come by and snag it for derelict.

'-)

Haha

I've got work to do on the Civic today.

I'm going to replace the timing belt/water pump, plus thermostat and hoses. While I'm at it, I'm going to pull the radiator out and see if I can clean it the best I can. I have no clue why it continues to overheat. It runs really well. I'm not seeing/smelling any antifreeze out the tail pipe (so don't think it's a head gasket).

Does it run hot all the time?

I can run the thing at 80mph down the highway (after ensuring the cooling system is full) and it will stay right where it's supposed to be heat wise.

Then you stop the car and let it sit and it will push coolant out past the radiator cap. New cap, btw.

Well, if you continue to have overheating troubles even after replacing the aforementioned, we can have a discussion on what might be happening

What are you thinking?

Nothing at the moment. I would do what I normally do: the process of elimination of possible root causes

One of the things which I found out was the previous owner had put a 180 thermostat in it thinking this was "one step cooler than stock". When I went to order a new one, I found the OE temp is 170F for it.

Lol

So you know what I bought, lol.

Something which is bothering me a bit about it is I get a lot of foam rise to the top of the radiator while it's running (like when I'm trying to bleed the system).

Is it self bleeding?

No.

Hey, one of the kewl things is I'll get to use my Lisle crank hub bolt socket for the first time! WooT!

Could that be it then? The presence of air in the lines hindering flow and over-pressurization of the coolant?

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 I know that feeling :)

@Zaid - The presence of air can cause "dead spots" in the coolant where it won't cool.

There's several things I'm going to check out when I have it apart. One other key thing is, when the gauge is showing as overheating, the heater doesn't blow warm air either, which means there isn't coolant flow going through the heater core. The previous owner stated they had changed the timing belt, but I'm wondering if they never changed the water pump when they did that.

I had completely bled the system and thought I'd solved the problem, but was mistaken.

Oh well, time to eat something.

If you had an ultrasonic flow meter or coriolis flow meter you could measure the actual coolant flow

lol ... Other than knowing you are wanting me to measure flow, I have no clue what you're talking about ;-)

If this radiator is plugged, i can get a new one for about $53 ... not too bad ... but I really hate doing R&R wrenching. Least efficient way of getting things right.

I don't like shooting in the dark.if you can quantify the difference in flow between pre- and post-cleaning the rad then you can appreciate how much of a difference the radiator makes

Agreed. I don't really have a way to quantitatively measure the flow, though.

The hoses are, I'm sure, the original hoses, so replacing them seems like a good maintenance item. They are rather "poochy" or stretched and bulging. It might be these are collapsing under full flow (possibly). Another thing which is very hard to tell because it will only happen when the engine is completely hot and the engine is running at speed.

I did feel the hoses the other day while the engine was running. The top hose (feed) was very hot and the bottom (return) was cool to the touch. Not sure if this was do to lack of coolant flow from the engine (water pump) or if there was little coolant flow through the radiator (clog) or if the radiator is just that good (highly, highly doubt it).

I've seen others on the site have had the same issue, but I don't believe I've ever seen there being a good answer to fix it. Maybe I'll come out of this with a better understanding of how to help people with their issue.