@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 actually the mere inclusion of the support structure adds 4 hours...

and it seems it works fine withut too

@Trish - To support or not to support: that is the question!

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 I printed the variant with embrasures without suppotrt fine...

so it seems ok...

Kewlio!

printing the window variant... so far it is fine...

@Trish - I like how you caveat that ... ;-)

Well, there is a large overhang in the window that has no supports...

How does that print?

I've wondered how much of an angle you can expect to print and stuff like overhangs (like you describe) are a conundrum to me.

Are there just design features which help support it during printing?

The main reason I'm asking is, I really don't like supports if I can get away with it. I think they make the print (for the most part) ugly. It seems you can never get them cleaned up enough for it to look good.

I watched a video the other day of a guy who printed a "screw" (large-ish, comes out looking sort of like an auger). He printed it vertically without supports. It befuddled me a little bit he was able to get the lead portion of the screw to print without any support. I didn't look at it close enough to see if it was angled up from the main shaft so as to support it. I'd suspect the best you could muster would be 45° or less to build on. If you go much over that, it would probably sag.

That is a good question btw. There is generally speaking a point between 60 and 70° (from horizontal) that is printable. very small overhangs (some shells shell) can be printed, IF the inner walls have a point to stand on (so for 2 walls 1 wall overhang is max.

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 a lot of times you can get away without. but not always.

Does a broader nozzle have any effect on how much of an overhang can be printed? (ie: using a .6mm versus a .4mm)

there is a setting that says "print outer wall first" - if you unhook that, it will print the inner walls first, allowing the tiny overhang trick.

and of course, a thicker nozzle allows to print a wider overhang easier. like, on a 2 wall print, 0.4 nozzle allows a 0.4mm overhang easy. with 0.6, that'd be 0.6 on 1mm, you might get away with 1mm

@Trish - That's good to know. I've been mesmerized while watching it print wondering how a slicer decides to print stuff (in what order).

@Trish - Kewl

it has parameters.

well, like... there is the setting "infill before shell" - if you toggle that off, you get less showy infill (it does not show in the outer layers that much)

Has any of this been asked on the site before (to your knowledge)?

3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/688/11242

not really.

you might ask about "How far of an overhang can I print without support" or something

I print at 0.1mm btw

That's pretty normal, isn't it?

I mean, that's what I print at as well, but that's because it's what is setup on cura

... And of course, it seems to work well :o)

I have the feeling most print at 0.1 or 0.2

I have seen a lot of posts about people printing in between .1 & .2 (ie: .15mm). I guess this is done to reduce print time?

yes, it does.

@0scar good one on PVA!

@Trish thanks, really weird stuff that PVA. Even if stored dry, it clogs really fast as it cooks pretty fast in the hot end (called core) even in the specially designed BB core...

@0scar PVA is... gluestick. Gluestick is PVA.

but there are more filaments that are that hygroscopic. Nylon/PolyAmids are often called up to demand a fully enclosed system from drybox to the extrudor and hotend

I know SLS Nylon powders are hygroscopic in a way you can't store the prints without sealing...