@Criggie Mathematically, I think we are looking for unique divisors. We are not counting divisors with multiplicity
@PaulH Ah interesting. I would agree that being so scared of a garden hose (unless your garden hose is attached to a waterjet cutter or something) is quite irrational.
I deleted the spam link and left the answer, since I've gone awry of community consensus on spam here before, but I think this is still unhelpful enough to be deleteable: bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/93953/43557
Excellent - thanks for that. What's left seems kinda useful. The general idea is to be "nice" to new users, but that spam flag is now tagged on their username for the future.
Why would the remainder seem unhelpful for someone planning stationary exercise bike rides ?
It lists a bunch of different types of workouts, but doesn't explain which ones are most useful for beginners, or what criteria one would use to choose the most appropriate one for one's goals.
It also doesn't really do a very good job of explaining the purpose of the various workout types, or how to progress or regress them based on one's fitness level.
IOW, it's too general to really answer the question.
It reads to me exactly like the type of crappy answer that I find all too much on SO. Someone cut-and-pasted part of a manual or another longer work, so nobody can complain that there's insufficient detail, but it's not at all clear how to apply those facts to the actual details of the question.
I had sintered pads rear and RS pads front. Used rear brake almost exclusively in rain. RS pads don't last long with wet grit, and they are even noisier.
For rear the sinter pads are fantastic. You don't need much braking force, less grabby isn't a disadvantage. They last four times as long, and don't glaze when getting dragged.
@Michael That was the forecast here for the last 8 months, but since 2 weeks, the majority of days are without rain. What a change :)
I could even go in a gravel ride without ending up with 1cm of mud in the bottom bracket area (the mudgard extension doesn't go far enough to avoid projections there).
Running and cycling in a muddy field is the point of cyclocross indeed, not gravel. Gravel is about having a bike that is comfortable enough to go where cars don't, and preferably on long distances.
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@Michael But anyone that knows a bit about Belgium knows that except beer, waffles and maybe the monarchy, stuff that are said to be Belgian are usually either Flemish or Walloon.
So to me, cyclocross is a Flemish thing. I in fact didn't know about cyclocross before buying the the fun bike (4 years ago...), because I saw gravel and cyclocross bikes in the shop and wondered about the differences.
My impression is that thieves have tools or they don't. If they have tools, I would think it's stronger than a wire cutter anyway, and then the question becomes: where to stop.
So the only point of this kind of lock is to delay a potential theft when I remain around.
@gschenk What is called "belgian waffle" is "brussels waffle" here. Flemish waffle are much finer, and usually filled with something - stuck between 2 waffles (vanilla mix for example - but not sirup, that's dutch). And there are also regional subtypes (kempen waffels - no filling, moderate thickness)
but note there's also a wallon version (even sweeter) called lacquemant
note that there's a version of the flemish one that is like the dutch stroopwafel, but with a different kind of sugar (that is typically belgian) - called "vergeoise" in France (the belgian name - cassonade - is used by the french for unprocessed sugar cane sugar so can be misleading)
Check if the calipers are seated well. No paint on there flat surface of the brake bosses. Often the flats were masked but paint from the sides is a bit higher. You can cut that's excess paint off with an exacto. If it's on the flats of the bosses you'd need a bike shop to re-face three bosses.
Bad facing of bosses cause loud brake noise. (And difficulty to have consistently centred brakes.)
When you inflate, it should blow the sealant back into the tyre.
Try and deflate with the valve in the lower half of the rim, so sealant will run down out of the valve. Its temping to have the valve up high in the rotation so its easier to reach. Avoid that if you can.
