@ChrisCudmore did you do the ones that hinge to the wall for support or hang on the rail
@ChrisCudmore mine's maybe a bit larger than this, I was pondering just adding another rail and doing 3 sliding doors at 1/3rd of the closet opening blocked at a time to avoid using the space in front of the closet for folding doors to stick out, but I think I'd just be better off doing a two bifold doors hinged to the wall
@ChrisCudmore did you buy the doors individually or did they come hinged together?
3 pins on each door. One bracket into the jamb and floor at the bottom, The jamb upper bracket is on a rail, and tightened. The moving bracket is a plastic slider with springs.
I bought 2 24" bifolds, each of which was 2 x12" 6 panel , hinged together.
@ChrisCudmore ahh so you hinged it to the top and bottom at the jamb as opposed to hinging it to the side? So the weight is supported by a pin to the floor rather than hanging like a door on the side of the jamb?
@ChrisCudmore Right. I didn't think about doing it that way, I've only ever seen them hinged to the side of the jamb for support which worked well or hanging on the rail above which is bloody horrible over time
@ChrisCudmore how did that work with carpet below, was the jamb on the bottom already solidly over the carpet? Right now the bottom of mine just has a metal rail which actually barely pushes down on the carpet rather than being done right with the carpet ending at the jamb
@ChrisCudmore I've seen bifolds like this, they were horrible because the bottom floats and shit get's bent as well as the top rail bending from the weight
Yeah, I've had wood and carpet in different places I've rented, I always used to like wood more but after the last place I kind of prefer carpet. Either way we'll always have carpet because my wife's feet get cold
@ChrisCudmore This is why we use rugs regardless of the carpet
If I went completely custom, I could have kept the same cabinet layout from my original kitchen, not having to move any utilities. Semi custom gives you a lot more choices than the off the shelf cabinets, that's what the kitchen people at big orange/blue are ordering from.
@JimmyHoffa I had adhesive tile on top of 70's linoleum, and my place was built in the 80's.
@BMitch You're suggesting I should remove the linoleum before putting the tile down? No... surely when you just leave the original garbage there it just enhances the look and feel of the new garbage
@ChrisCudmore sit down with a kitchen designer in one of the big box stores, they are ordering from a catalog from a regional manufacturer. Everything is delivered, nothing bought off the store shelves.
@JimmyHoffa I think the layers add an extra spring to your step. :)
Big orange worked with these guys for my order, big blue has a similar arrangement to the same company but the cabinets have a different name: woodmarkcabinetry.com
@ChrisCudmore I like blue, but orange is a 3 minute drive (could even walk it). Nearest blue is a 30-40 min drive not counting traffic.
I've got a half dozen oranges closer to me than the nearest blue.
@BMitch Much of my cabinets are in quite good shape for their age, the one thing I need to do is get all the drawers on rails or something but I don't even know how I can do that... not all the drawers have boards on the sides to attach a rail to
@BMitch Interesting, I thought they had to be mounted against something laterally, didn't figure there were ones you could just mount at the ends of the rail..
Suppose I could get some of those and that would be easy to install
My next project idea that I'm actually thinking about doing is unsafe and downright stupid. Anybody think you could cut a tree down with a circular saw just fine?
@Jason Oh good. I figure I'll save myself the money on the tree removal people and just spend the money on something I need anyway: For the price of tree removal (not root), I should be able to get a nice circular saw and a ladder, both of which are things I need. This tree is considerably thicker than 4"...
it goes just a couple feet over my roof height, figure I'll get up there and chop the top 2-3' off, then 4-5' below that is reachable through the second floor window (it's right up against the house, thus why I'm removing it), and then i can chop down the next chunks from the ground.
@ChrisCudmore Nah, and if 3" at best, then the circular is not going to work, though technically that gives me 6" but the tree's a solid bit larger... Though this is an opportunity to spend money on tools instead of a service, so maybe I'll think about a reciprocating saw..
@BMitch Good idea, I can just buy this crap on amazon. Didn't think about that because I figure I should look at it and hold it, but at the end I just need to make sure I buy the one with the right measurements
@BMitch Either way, no reason I shouldn't buy widgets and doodads for my house online. Some things you want to measure and verify but at the end of the day if it lists the measurements online and they're what you need, I'll get a much better selection than getting lost in the big box joint
I frequently buy from big box stores because home improvement projects frequently need return trips. I've never done a plumbing project that didn't require at least 3 trips.
But some things you have to go online to get the selection.
I bitched at my newspaper because the called me 10 times in a week to get me to upgrade to daily from my Saturday only. They never called me back, and I got 13 weeks free.
There's something about the reliability of POTS that I just can't give up.
Had a 3 day power outage during the floods. POTS still worked.
Were you calling a lot of people? I guess during a power outage, I'm perfectly happy cleaning up around the house, reading a book, or taking a trip to somewhere that has power.
