Conversation started Jan 12, 2012 at 19:58.
Jan 12, 2012 19:58
Welcome to Project Update Thursday
Zzzz... huh?
;)
Welcome back @KarlKatzke, long time no see
Thanks. :) Been a busy winter so far. With everything except the house.
I finally finished the tile tub/shower surround in my bathroom.
anything DIY related in all that busy-ness
@auujay ohh, do tell
Jan 12, 2012 20:03
I hung curtains at my girlfriend's? I told my girlfriend she has crummy taste in home furnishings? ;)
The last day or two were pretty hard simply because the wet saw is outside and we had some very cold temps
Ohai
Oh, brrrrr
let me fill in for @Aarthi: pics please
so my question was about tracking down sounds in a house that are most likely not water related, but sort of sound like it
Jan 12, 2012 20:04
one day I had to get out the hair dryer to defrost the water line in the wet saw because it had frozen up.
the rest of the day we left it running a little bit so we it would not keep freexing
@auujay cold wet tiles are no fun
it was brutal on my hands
my finger tips were raw for days
that link should be visible for everyone
we also had the granite guys come out and install the vanity top recently
which let me hook up the sink so now we at least have a working sink to go with the toilet
(the shower is not grouted yet)
Holy crap I thought that was the bathroom in my old house
We did the exact same thing, with the fiberglass tub surround over a window.
@auujay You should wear thick heavy duty nitrile gloves when working with tile. You'll go through about a box of gloves, but $10 is not much to pay for not bleeding.
that's a good tip :)
the porcelain is really sharp but the thinset just sucks all the moisture out of your hands
and then trying cut tiles in freezing temps is even worse
Jan 12, 2012 20:09
Precisely. I got the tip from a tile board. The guys swear by the purple or black really thick ones. The ones I got at CVS didn't work as well, but I just had to change them frequently.
And I mean disposable nurse's style nitrile gloves, btw.
yeah, my wife is a nurse I could have had her swipe a box from work
we actually have some in the house for when she cuts chili peppers in the kitchen
so this weekend the plan is to grout the surround
i am a little concerned because I think I will need to use box sanded grout and unsanded
I don't have any problem cutting chili peppers until I forget what I'm doing and rub my eyes
if you have cuts on your hands it can hurt...
ah, good point, this is why I have gloves for everything else :)
the spacing between my large tiles is 1/16" so I need to use unsanded, but the smaller square tile in the strip are larger than 1/8" (my 1/8" spacers wiggle around between them)
Jan 12, 2012 20:14
Don't worry about using sanded grout in small joints.
The only place I wouldn't use sanded grout is in a shower or on a countertop where you have to clean it a lot.
so I am thinking I need to use unsanded between my 9x12 tiles and then sanded grout between the mosaic strip
I would just pick one or the other. The grout joint thickness doesn't really matter.
I'm putting sanded epoxy grout in 1/16 in my kitchen and it's fine.
my concern is that if I don't use sanded grout between the >1/8" joints that it will crack when it dries
(it shrinks when it dries)
It actually doesn't matter as much as you think it does.
Your real concern should be, "How much is my wife going to kill me when she tries to clean the shower or countertop that has sanded grout on it and it chews up the sponge?"
Because that's really all that matters.
If I use unsanded and then I see cracks in it the next day, can I add more grout? will it bond to the dried grout?
Jan 12, 2012 20:17
Yeah, it'll bond. You can just pack it.
For a floor though, I would always use sanded. For a shower or a countertop I would use unsanded. I can't tell from the pic what you need to work on.
yeah, I used sanded on the bathroom floor with 1/8" spaces
I was going to use the same color in the shower, so I have sanded grout in the color (left over from the floor)
but I was worried I would not get the color to match anyway since I would have to be use a different bag for the unsanded grout
even if they say it is the same color they also say that if you need to use more than one bag you should mix it all up so it hides any variations
i will just do it all with unsanded and not worry :)
Jan 12, 2012 20:19
Sounds like a good plan. :) Unsanded is waaaay easier to clean. Don't forget to seal it, too.
yeah, I have a bottle of sealer that I need to use on the granite too
I already used it on the floor
I really wish I could find unsanded spectralock grout.
Nobody down here in Tejas seems to have heard of it, and every time I've ordered it online, it's turned out to be sanded.
does the spectralock have the sealent mixed in already?
Yeah, it does.
And it doesn't crack, it doesn't stain, the color always matches, it makes all your tile jobs look good no matter how much of a rube you are...
the last part, of course, being what I need help with most.
is it an epoxy grout?
Jan 12, 2012 20:23
yep
i heard those can be tough to work with because they setup so fast
Yes and no ... I had no problems the couple of times i used it, but wasn't doing large areas. The pro varient of it takes an hour or more to set up, so that isn't a big deal, but the homeowner mini units that they sell will set up within 20-30 if you're not careful. You can also put it in the fridge and it'll delay the setup tme.
Or slow it, rather, because it's a chemical reaction. It's just harder to work cold too, so I never bother.
so any other project updates?
anyone?
crickets
5
Q: How can I contribute to the DIY community blog?

Tester101I'd like to contribute to the blog, how do I get started?

Jan 12, 2012 20:28
heh
Nothing much going on here. Mostly been working on my beer brewing rig. It's all DIY, so I guess it fits :)
@JoeFish You should write a blog entry about it.
@JoeFish there is a homebrew.SE!
I'm an active participant in homebrew.se :)
@Tester: I may do that. I've been trying to get off my lazy bum and do a writeup for my website
There's a lot to talk about - it's a scratch-built electric system that uses 2, 5500watt water heater elements.
They're controlled by fuzzy-logic PIDs.
I learned to solder stainless for all of the fittings, which was fun.
That's a pretty old pic, but it gives you an idea
The control panel takes 50a service, and breaks it into 240 and 110 inside.
I don't think I'll ever get tired of this question
1
Q: How many kilowatts (or amps) can I safely draw from the AC grid?

Florin AndreiI rent a house in the SF Bay Area. The house is not exactly new, but it's in good condition; hopefully the AC installation is the same. Most AC outlets are without grounding; but fortunately, there are two outlets in the backyard that do have ground connectors. I am thinking to build a kiln to f...

How much you wanna bet he has a liberal arts degree?
Jan 12, 2012 20:44
@KarlKatzke What's wrong with liberal arts degree?
I know lots of smart people with no degrees at all.
@Tester101 Nothing, unless it's a quick way to identify that you are without common sense.
I know lots of people with really advanced degrees, with no common sense at all.
True. And it was a biased comment, but one that working at a university I dealt with all the time. The people that couldn't find their own posterior with both hands invariably were in a liberal arts college or "general studies" -- most of the other focuses tended to at least google the question first.
It's sort of like you tend to notice that in general it's either a Lexus SUV, or a subaru of some sort, going 55 in the left lane.
@KarlKatzke if it wasn't for dumb people, who would run our fast food joints, scrub our toilets, collect our trash? Not saying you have to be dumb to do these jobs, but it helps.
hehehe.
Now, now, Tester, get with the program. Those are not dumb people, those are disadvantaged people, aka the 99%. And those of us in the plutocracy need to be careful to keep them in their places.
Jan 12, 2012 20:53
I have a few partial project updates, since it seems to be a slow news day.
We added some studs to the yurt.
The yurt wall is a lattice of lathe strips, which is fine...
The wife must be happy about that!
but it's really hard to find a place for receptacles, and I would like it to be stronger in case a tree falls on us (we're in the woods)
(This isn't sexuality.SE...)
The rim shot machine must be broken today.
The manufacturer offers a "snow and wind kit" which is mostly 2x4s that you put under each rafter, with metal brackets to tie everything together...
I just bought 2x4s at the lumber yard and put them in convenient spots, under about 1/2 of the rafters.
Jan 12, 2012 20:56
The other project going on here is an expansion of electrical system in the yurt.
Before, I had 4 studs (at N, E, S, W), and a duplex recep on each stud.
A single 20A circuit.
Enough to get us going, but now I want more. Much more.
So of course .... I'm adding a subpanel.
I'm imagining lightning crackling down as Jay yells "MOAR!"
demonic laughter, etc.
Sounds like my house. Previously owned by a licensed electrician, who, when he finished the basement, wired the 8 outlets and 3 banks of flourescents to the same circuit as the living room lights (8 hi-hats) and outlets.
A 15-amp circuit, I might add.
Soon I'll have 2 20A circuits of general purpose receps, a 15A to a ceiling fan, 15A of lighting. And maybe a dedicated circuit, right next to the subpanel, for a space heater, which is a convenient backup to the woodstove.
Later on, we may add a kitchen in the yurt, so being able to pull a few circuits for that will be nice.
Or we may build a separate kitchen building, in which case it will get... another subpanel, yay!
@JayBazuzi you are going to have 5 circuits total, and you want to run a sub panel?
Of course. -)
Jan 12, 2012 21:00
You should put each circuit on it's own sub.
Then you wouldn't need light switches.
just flip the breaker
Noted.
@JayBazuzi I guess I can understand it in your situation. Your main panel is outside, right?
They do make some small load centers that are really cheap. If I ever build a house, I'm sure I'd be tempted to add one in each room. <grin>
Main panel is on a 6x6 post about 10' from the yurt. It's smallish (8 spaces).
Jan 12, 2012 21:02
@JayBazuzi one in each room is extreme, but one per floor in a large house can be useful.
2-space panels are under $20, so price isn't really a problem.
@JayBazuzi So the new sub panel will be in the yurt?
@Tester101: correct, new sub in the yurt.
That makes sense.
The distance from main to the new sub is short, but there's underground conduit between them. Putting one /4 cable in the conduit is easier than one cable per circuit.
Jan 12, 2012 21:04
@JayBazuzi are you going to move the current circuit into the new sub?
So you'll basically be using the main panel as a service disconnect?
Yes, I will move the currenct circuit.
No, the system is a little more complex than that.
The real service entrance / main panel is 150' away. It has a 200A breaker and the meter, etc.
One circuit runs to a convenience recep on the same post. (I used to put my wifi AP and DSL modem in a bucket on top of that post)
There's a circuit running to a subpanel at the septic system (240V/15A pump circuit, controller circuit, and a convenience recep.)
Then there's a circuit running to a subpanel next to the yurt.
@JayBazuzi Are you planning to feed the new sub, from the old sub or the main panel?
from the old sub
Jan 12, 2012 21:37
@JayBazuzi What you're doing is a little strange for a traditional house, but that's pretty much how it's done in industrial settings.
No traditional houses here :-)
Question is - what do you do with all this wiring when the mongolain nomadic urge takes you elsewhere?
A reasonable question.
While yurts are traditionally mobile, this one is pretty well fixed here. I suspect it will be here for a long time, even if we leave.
Timeshare!
Jan 12, 2012 21:45
Do yurts have an established lifespan? I'm guessing with all the modern materials it would last awhile...
The canvas cover is supposed to last 10-20 years. The wood structure should last a very long time.
My deck structure is all pressure treated, so it'll be here a while.
G'night DIYers
Jan 12, 2012 22:14
Thanks for joining us for this week's Project Update Thursday!
 
Conversation ended Jan 12, 2012 at 22:14.