HVAC systems don't exchange air with the outside unless you specifically add an air exchanger. In older houses, this wasn't necessary because they leaked enough that you always got new fresh air coming in somewhere. With newer houses and recently fully renovated ones, the houses can indeed be sealed up so air tight that an air exchanger is necessary. — The Evil Greebo5 mins ago
I have a 100 years old building with a store on the main floor. Since the building was built over 100 years old there is no ducting what so ever. There is also no furnance. In the summer we just hook up an air condition through one of the windows. In the winter we have a heater blowing the ai...
I have another question regarding HVAC but this is not for my house. It's for a commercial building that I own. I'll create a new thread for this question but's it's regarding the same thing. — Richard23 mins ago
@KarlKatzke Necromancer comment, but: Gray and white are both standard colors for identifying the grounded conductor. NEC 2011 200.6(A) also gives a third option of 3 white stripes along the entire length over some color other than green. They probably used gray rather than white because there are 2 systems run together in the same raceway or box, and the grounded conductors need to be separately identified per 200.6(D).
I'm thinking about making an offer on a 1930's house that needs a few improvements. The gas stove/range isn't situated against an exterior wall. Rather, it's placed against the back side of the brick chimney that separates the kitchen from the living room. There's no range hood and no duct.
Have a look at the 2006 International Residential Code. Here are a few sections that may apply.
Chapter 15 - Exhaust Systems
SECTION M1501 GENERAL
M1501.1 Outdoor discharge.
The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged
to the outdoors. Air shall...
@TheEvilGreebo They do have "ventless hoods", I have one (though I do have an electric range). Even so, I don't really see the point in it. It sucks air in at the bottom, and then blows it out at the front. Something about filtering grease, or some crap like that.
i'd been going back and forth on running 1/2 to each room or running a line per fixture but then got to thinking about how I'm going to have the walls open anyway and running dedicated lines (in particular 3/8 to the sink faucets) will mean faster hot water
figured out a plan to tap into my existing hot and cold mains and shift the individual lines over to the manifold one at a time
@TheEvilGreebo That would mess up my routine, I use the "not hot yet" water to wash off the toothbrush and to splash my face with before shaving. When I get to the shower, the hot water is already there because of my time at the sink.
Make a cover out of a piece of tile (even the hole you cut out). I would make it 4-6" diameter so you can get to the existing drain opening to open it for snaking without pulling up your floor. Drill a few holes in the cover and a finger hole on the side to allow yourself to pull it out.
My house is sloped at least 1/8" per 1' along the front side. It also has long horizontal siding. So if windows are installed level it may be pretty noticeable. Leveling the house is not an option. So I wonder how can I minimize visual effect of the difference in levels between house and windows....
I'm putting some lights in my crawlspace. The lights receptacles are not grounded but I am carrying the ground the entire run connected to the metal boxes. Is it acceptable for the two ground conductors to be screwed under a single ground screw?