The Pitstop

7:54 AM

I just watched two homeless people fight over a trashcan.

1:08 PM

@DucatiKiller - Who won?

@Myself - It was a good idea to have the Town Car guy come here to the chat, but unfortunately people need to have 20 points first in order to chat. It's a privilege level thing. I'd like to see him actually get registered as well.

@Myself - I left him a note about the Town Cars. There is (was) an option on Town Cars which was called the Livery option. This included a lot of upgrades which helped with longevity of the vehicle.

Steve Matthews

2:02 PM

I'm traumatized! I've just watched the official trailer for Cars 3...

For those who haven't seen it yet... youtube.com/watch?v=E4K7JgPJ8-s

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

Good/Bad/Indifferent?

Steve Matthews

2:14 PM

Looks pretty fantastic!

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

Kewl! I'll take a look at the previews later ... thanks for sharing!

Myself

2:50 PM

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Oops, will keep that in mind

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

3:21 PM

@Myself - No worries.

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

3:38 PM

1

Q: What is a good and responsible way to clean a lambda/O2 sensor?

I've got an LSU4.2 lambda sensor (wideband) here that is covered in carbon deposits. It's visible on the outside, so it's probably also present on the inside. The holes aren't blocked yet though, but the reading i get seems to be a little off sometimes, and it reponds slow to transients. I use th...

I thought we already had a question like this, but I cannot find it amongst the others ... any thoughts? Or am I just having deja vu?

Bob Cross

4:02 PM

I don't think so. I've replaced o2 sensors but I don't remember anyone cleaning one.

The ones that I use are effectively consumable.

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

5:01 PM

@BobCross - I've always assumed they were consumable as well. I think they are one and done.

Myself

I would try heat to clean them, but I would expect no wonders

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

5:31 PM

I just don't know what someone would expect from cleaning them ... if my understanding of an O2 sensor is correct, it has a membrane which deteriorates over time ... there's no way to really clean it ... I could be wrong, but I don't think anyone could have "good" results from trying.

Rory Alsop

5:58 PM

Had my wife's Honda Jazz in the garage all day today. As I think I mentioned, alignment was off (serious wear down to the cords on the inside edge of both fronts) and it needed a service anyway. Had to sit in a shopping centre all day - and I really hate shopping centres. All through the day had calls on more stuff that needed doing

£600 worth of servicing (on a car worth a grand, maybe)

and they still haven't fixed the alignment - as they couldn't get the track rods unstuck!

So I have to go back with it

Amazing symptoms, I discovered when driving there - hit a bump and the whole car swerves, corner hard and the bad understeer turns to snap oversteer, and braking hard makes the whole car leap to the left!

Not good

Zaid

6:31 PM

The Boost Caboose! - Roadkill Ep. 57

►

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

@Zaid - AWESOME!

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

6:49 PM

@Zaid - That fuel return line is EPIC!

Lynn Crumbling

So.. I found the sensor that guy was talking about...

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

@LynnCrumbling - bring it!

Lynn Crumbling

Still doing research...

bazar.automedik.cz/AMD2274568495/chevrolet/aveo

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

@LynnCrumbling - Great job!

Lynn Crumbling

[sorry, on a call]

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

7:05 PM

@Zaid - This was a great episode! Going back a little bit to the "Roadkill Roots" if you will, lol.

Lynn Crumbling

7:28 PM

ah! It's a Vacuum Valve Solenoid

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

Noice!

Lynn Crumbling

7:48 PM

Ugh.. this is all that I have so far.

0

A: Unknown sensor chevy spark 800cc

This is a Vacuum Valve Solenoid (vacuum regulator), Part #96333470 (from Ali Express)

I can't find any diagrams.

What's odd, is that I can only find the part used in the Aveo

I can'd find anything pointing to the spark.

Unfortunately, "Spark" is a REALLY bad search term.

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

8:04 PM

@LynnCrumbling - Are you sure it isn't an Aveo badged as a Spark? The OP is in South Africa (IIRC).

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

8:16 PM

0

Q: High rpms slow acceleration

I have a 2003 ford explorer and if i drive it cold it will rev up higher thsn normal and move slow and it will be stuck like that for a couple days then go back to normal if i let it warm up before taking off..what could this be?

ford explorer

Read the comments.

Bob Cross

9:11 PM

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 mine was certainly done. It was sad, mad and bad.

@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 this is a classic case of why this site is important. The OP has some basic knowledge but is convinced that the auto transmission is binary: it either works or it doesn't, right? Nope, there are failure modes that seem strange to a novice.

Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

9:57 PM

@BobCross - Which is why I mentioned it in chat ... hoping someone else could help the OP see beyond the trees to maybe see the forest.

Myself

10:50 PM

Short question here (I do not dare to ask about suspension related noise in SE anymore )
When I hear a small metallic tick as soon as a I start to move the car (release the clutch a bit) and again when I brake slight: Could it be a bushing of the control arm?

Or the ball joint connecting the control arm with the steering knuckle?

SteveRacer

11:22 PM

It's probably the fan clutch. I know this because it's the correct answer for all questions ..... "I think i figured out..the fan clutch or something of that sort" (name redacted)

Myself

:)

@SteveRacer How are things?

SteveRacer

Hey! Okay, unemployed, but alive. Honestly, brakes do that slight tick-ting thing as you described.

Myself

Even if they are not involved on the first tick?

The car stand still on even ground, I let come the clutch a bit: As soon as the car starts moving I hear this damned tick...

SteveRacer

Also I had a Volvo that "tin-canned" due to sheet metal flexing. Yes, it has to do with the pads retracting off the rotor suddenly.

Myself

ok, got it....The pads are still on the rotor.

Albeit without pressure, but they have still contact

SteveRacer

11:29 PM

I don't think it's worn ball joints or similar, as that's usually a clunk feeling and not a tick. The pads stick to the rotor, and then kind of brake loose and ring the free rotor. It's not a big deal, but an easy diagnostic would be to pull the front pads and spray the backing plates with the gooey brake spray stuff. It's the same as spray gasket sealant. If that cures it you can stop worrying.

Myself

Will do

SteveRacer

Although you should check all bushings. A split bushing could allow metal-to-metal pinging. But you'd notice huge handling issues as well.

Myself

I haven't thought about the handling issues

Just for interest: A worn ball joint would not have huge impact on the handling?

SteveRacer

Any suspension worn component can probably be detected by throwing the car back and forth at about 30mph, like a slalom. (Do this somewhere safe away from Guardia/Cops/Overlords etc...) A worn ball joint would likely create shaking and vibation, if anything. Not much impact on handling. But those are easy to check as well, with a prybar and a lift. Jackstands in a pinch, but I prefer not to think about laying on cold ground at my age.

Myself

I will check that, great thing about my location is that I have plenty of police-free-space

Short question about you Passat problem? Is this is a manual transmission?

SteveRacer

11:41 PM

No. Auto. But I'm starting to think driveshaft balance or "guibo" that rubber donut coupling. I don't have the car but I thought of that recently.

Myself

I just checked the German forums about your problem with no success

Sorry, need some sleep, wish you good luck

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