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6:15 PM
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Q: How Much Deviation from Ambient Temp is Normal for IAT sensors?

Robert S. BarnesI've noticed that my air intake temp sensor gives the correct ambient temp reading in the morning when the engine is cold, but that it typically is giving me readings between 7 to 17 degrees Celsius above the ambient temperature. Is that normal and does it have any significant negative effect?

How much of this effect is heat soak on the IATS vs. actual intake air heating up?
 
 
4 hours later…
10:34 PM
Wow, y'all need a better room name here :)
I'm here because I'd like some input on what information would be helpful for y'all to help me diagnose a loud squeak coming from under the hood of my '99 dodge ram 1500 laramie slt.
Any input toward what I should include in such a question would be appreciated.
It's got a few mi (212k), but runs great. I'm guessing it's a pulley wheel for the serpentine belt, but I'm not 100% sure which one. Guessing it's the steering pump, cause the squeak started soon after the pump was replaced.
Now, I'm not 100% sure that's what it is, also, because when I drive through a puddle, it apparentlylubricates it for a few seconds after which the squeak returns.
When I spin the wheel the whole way in either direction, the pitch changes, but the frequency stays the same (depends on engine rpm apparently, squeak stops altogether at over 3k rpms).
It's annoying, because while cruising, the rpms don't go over even 2k unless I go faster than 80 mph, which I rarely do (and it squeaks at that rpm anyway). Only gives me a break if I accelerate fast or drive through water.
I'd like to find out what it is and learn the best way to stop the noise, by asking a question on the site.
Thanks for your help.
 
10:57 PM
Also, no squeak for the first 10-15 mins of driving, til the enging warms up.
Also, a different question I have is what the rattling/knocking sound is when the engine just starts, and it's cold out. Sounds like the fan blades hitting something, but not sure that's it, as I can't see anything in there, and also the rattling/knocking sound goes away when the engine warms up.
I'd ask that as a separate question, unless someone sees that the two things might be connected. Will be glad to provide additional info as requested.
@Paulster2 looks like you're the resident expert here. :) hey.
 
11:22 PM
@J.Musser ... As for the pulley, it is going to be one of your pulley wheels, but I doubt it's the pump. If it's brand new, they usually don't make any noise at all. It is either going to be one of either the idler or tensioner pulleys. And if you don't know which one is which, if you eliminate all of the other pulleys which the serpentine belt rides on, you should have one tensioner pulley (is a small spring loaded arm with a pulley)
It may or may not have an idler pulley. If it does, it will be the other pulley not connected to anything (like the water pump or alternator, etc), but is not spring loaded (thus the name "idler" because it doesn't do anything but take up slack in the belt).
Like I was saying, one of the two is going to be bad and this is pretty normal for these pulleys. If you have 212k on the engine and have never changed either one of these, you are in pretty good shape. It should be pretty easy to tell which one is making the noise by taking the belt off then spinning the pulleys by hand ... just wing it around fast and you'll probably hear it.
If you don't hear anything by this method, you could also possibly feel it as you turn it. It might have a bit of a scratchy feel as you turn it. If that doesn't get you which one it is, find yourself a mechanics stethoscope. You can pick one up cheap at Harbor Freight. If you don't want to do that, find a very long screwdriver and place the tip of it on the pulley
 
@Paulster2 OK. The reason I asked in chat was because I wondered if I have sufficient info to ask a question on the site.
 
Place the other end of the screwdriver (handle end) up to your ear. It should be readily apparent which pulley is at fault.
 
Looks like I'll have to learn how to take the belt off anyway.
 
What engine do you have in your truck?
 
The LA engines are a family of pushrod OHV 90° V gasoline engines built by Chrysler Corporation. It was factory-installed in passenger vehicles, trucks and vans, commercial vehicles, marine and industrial applications from 1964½ through 2003. The combustion chambers are wedge-shaped, rather than the polyspherical combustion chambers in the predecessor A engine or the hemispherical chambers in the Chrysler Hemi engine. All are cast iron, except for the Viper V10 which is aluminum. LA engines have the same 4.46-inch (113 mm) bore spacing as the A engines. LA engines were made at Chrysler's Mound...
magnum v8 5.9l
 
11:30 PM
So the 360 ... I did the top end on a 360 about a year ago.
I believe the truck was a 98, so should have been pretty much the same as yours.
 
@Paulster2 ok
just fyi I know nothing about cars.
 
No worries, that's what we're here for :D
I'm trying to look something up ... just a second.
Your truck has A/C (I hope, lol)?
 
@Paulster2 Do you think the information I have so far is enough that if I ask a question on-site, I will get a definitive answer?
@Paulster2 yeah.
 
So, yes, definitely enough information. Make sure you put the entire make/model/engine information in there.
 
@Paulster2 Anything else that would help?
 
11:35 PM
Make sure you make TWO questions, one for each problem.
 
@Paulster2 Oh yeah, of course.
I'm not new to the SE way, just like to make sure I'm asking good questions.
 
Awesome, great crossover :D
Haha, I may have some questions for you sometime :D Like how do you get rid of moles in your grass ... but that's for another time, lol.
 
@Paulster2 That would be a dupe, lol
Maybe I'll see ya over there sometime.
 
Sounds good to me and I wouldn't doubt it already exists. They are a PITB little critter. I guess it's one way to aerate your lawn :P
 
@Paulster2 Ha, one bad way.
 
11:41 PM
Exactly.
 
Looks like Mv is a low-volume low-voting site. Normal for a beta...
 
We are always looking for more input. One of the issues I see is that once a question gets answered, it actually answers a slew of other issues ... unlike something SO or SE, the problems don't really change. With programming or whatever, there's a billion different ways to do something and a billion different ways to answer something.
We don't have the same quantity of issues, but we do have quite a few visitors to the site everyday (at least it seems that way). The ones who do come don't like to vote, though, that's for sure.
It seems like it's just the same ole who vote ... nothing spectacular, and not a great following of enthusiasts.
 
@Paulster2 Maybe I can help. I have a few Electorate badges over the network. I might be able to work on another.
 
Haha, That's awesome. We'd sure love to have you.
I try very hard to make sure everyone has a decent answer, but there are plenty of things I don't know about. I try not to answer those questions where I'd just be guessing, but I find myself throwing things out there sometimes then realize ... Paul, did you just put some crap out there???
 
Time might be an issue (I may become a mod on LH in the near future), but I'll throw in some effort.
 
11:56 PM
Anyway, as far as the noise you are talking about which goes away after a while, I'll bet the issue there is an exhaust leak.
 
@Paulster2 lol.
@Paulster2 huh. anything diy I could do about that?
or should I get it looked at?
 
Well, congrats if you get the mod position ... I find myself torn between the possibility of being a mod and then the headache it might entail.
 
@Paulster2 yeah...lol
 
You could possibly, but one of the issues with doing the exhaust manifold gaskets is the nuts/bolts are usually pretty corroded well before you hit 212k.
 
some sites would be a lot easier to moderate than LH, but...
 
11:59 PM
On the truck I worked on, I ended up replacing almost all of the studs/nuts/bolts associated because they were pretty hosed.
 
@Paulster2 Also, any way to pinpoint the location of an oil leak? I seem to lose about a quart of engine oil every couple weeks.
 

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