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1:14 AM
@Asmyldof We are a schizophrenic people/
@PlasmaHH Sorry my VNA doesn't go there.
 
 
1 hour later…
2:21 AM
What are some options for a dipole antenna to buy, such as on Digikey, for this project: electronicshub.org/fm-bugger-circuit
 
2:36 AM
@AdamUraynar What frequency/wavelength?
 
It doesn't say.
 
@AdamUraynar I mean, what frequency do you want to use it for?
 
FM radio
88 to 108 MHz
I think
 
@AdamUraynar That's about 3 m. You should be able to make one yourself out of wire.
Or get one at a consumer electronics store rather than Digikey
 
like Target?
I'm already ordering some components from Digikey
3 m of wire? The instructions (even though the seem to be old) specifically ask for a dipole antenna
what about increasing the range? is that not the point of the dipole antenna?
 
3:02 AM
@AdamUraynar I am not an antenna builder, but I think a dipole is typically 1/2 wavelength, so 1.5 m.
Have a look at the wiki article...it's a pretty simple structure
 
Ok, I'll read more...but I think I'll forget about ordering a dipole antenna (since they're expensive relative to every other component combined) and just go with the wire
@ThePhoton Thanks!
 
 
2 hours later…
4:59 AM
y0
 
 
2 hours later…
7:03 AM
@abdullahkahraman ghurt
 
7:56 AM
If anyone thinks I am being nitpicky in my comments to new questions or new answers please let me know. I may seem that way because I had the same comments posted to me about splitting blocks of text into paragraphs, use proper grammar, don't use confusing terms, etc. I have seen Olin tear someone to pieces who posted a simple, confusing but rude question, so there must be some gray area here.
 
8:17 AM
@Sparky256 I find, step one, Olin to be no example for anyone.
Otherwise, the comments I have seen you post (likely not even half, but a fair amount) seem perfectly appropriate to me
 
 
9 hours later…
5:07 PM
@Asmyldof. Thanks for clarifying that issue.
 
I suppose you be welcome
But wipe your feet, I just vacuumed
 
@Asmyldof :)
@W5VO I have seen your answer for suspending someone or something like that
I agree with you for that thing.
 
5:29 PM
LINKIES!
 
Considering that only one person has asked me to publicly justify their suspension, I don't really need to provide a link
 
:'(
 
and if you've been on meta recently, you've probably seen it anyways
 
How will I know whom to punch and why... I'll just have to randomly punch anyone I run into for the rest of my life, just to be safe
 
5:51 PM
@Asmyldof which in that case might be rather short
 
-2
Q: Request for a moderator to defend his decision to suspend an account

EM FieldsI'd like to know, specifically, what moderator @W5VO found objectionable enough to have suspended my account for 30 days (which has now ended).

 
@PlasmaHH But at least I was being safe. A prudent coarse of action to lead to a globally prudent result. Very fitting
@KrishnShweta Now he'll get mad at you. And already found it. The meta hint was sufficient
 
While I do think one target of one comment deserved some slapping, the wording and public fashion of it, not so much
Whoop. Making Hexagonal PCBs
 
I have one small doubt.
@JRE Hi..... How are you?
Wait wait..
 
JRE
6:09 PM
Hi. Frustrated. My oscilloscope exploded last week. I replaced the exploded capacitor, but something else died so it still doesn't work. Just got back from buying more parts. I'll see if I can get it fixed after supper.
 
Tell it it'll get waffles if it cooperates
And cuddles
And a carrot, for some reason
 
6:20 PM
What is the use of resister there?
@JRE I wish I could made an oscilloscope for you ( might possible in dreams only)
 
6:36 PM
@Asmyldof Now he'll get mad at you can I know to whom you are referring ???
 
JRE
6:50 PM
In case any one was wondering, the K8/50 diode has the 50 in its name because it is literally a stack of 50 selenium diodes inside a spring loaded tube
This explains my difficulties in testing the two diodes in the highvoltage supply of my scope. 50*0.6V is 30Volts. I tested with 22V, so they both looked dead. They actually are dead, since checked in circuit, in operation. Both failed open.
 
@KrishnShweta The Mod in question. Shh
@JRE This is extremely common practise in old fashionedy design
Somewhere in a drawer in my parents' attic there live a bucket full of such discs
Not fully sure what semiconductor type though, too young to really be able to determine
 
7:09 PM
@KrishnShweta It's supposed to be a variable resistor controlled by the base current. But it's not really a great model. If you can understand "I_c = beta * I_b, unless that requires V_c < V_e + 0.2 V", you're better off using that.
 
7:36 PM
@JRE I like to check diodes with very small current sources
 
JRE
The D43 lives!!!!!
Replacing the K8/50 diodes with 2 strings of 4 x 1N4007 did the trick. Well, that and the signal diode in the trigger circuit.
@PlasmaHH I normally test them with the diode test on my multimeter. That didn't do any good at all. The test with 22V was through a 10k resistor. One way should have read 22V, the other way should have been much lower. But, 22V wasn't high enough to get 50 diodes in series to conduct.
@KrishnShweta Very kind of you. I've got my old clunker running again, so I'm happy now.
 
@JRE My tactic with pre-80's: Chain as many voltage sources in series until at least 100uA starts dribbling through. At blocking voltage divided by 20 still no current: problems!
With the resistor and creating a smooth as possible ramp, of course
But, admittedly, my lab has (75+30+32+32+32)[adjustable to 0 each]+24+48 per standard + several to dozens of times 12V and 24V LED supplies, so it takes quite long before my lab runs out of voltage
If you have issues like these more often, before my hobby started making me money, I had one old 30V lab supply from Philips (cost of repairs 14 Dutch guilders - supply: free) and a bunch of 1A rectified transformers for fixed steps and rocker switches to switch over
Not the greatest set-up, but with a good multimeter a decent way to be able to test low power devices up to 100VDC or even more
 
JRE
8:21 PM
I hope not to have these issues often, but I'll try to remember your tips in case it ever happens again. Fact is, I'm not well equipped here at home. Most the time I have spent working on this has been looking some aspect of the problem and thinking "Well, I could check X, but don't have the tools. Check something else and try to think of a way to check X using stone knives and bearskins."
I put off measuring the HV until I was sure there was nothing left that could cause the problem except for lack of HV. Then I put together a voltage divider out a couple of 1/2 watt resistord so that I could measure upto 4000V with a meter rated for 1000V.
 
@JRE These days switched supplies at 24V, 1 or 2 A cost near to nothing
Anyway. Congrats on the fix ^.^
And! Don't forget to reverse protect your chain of diodes
 
JRE
Did I mention that I don't like high voltages? The 300 volt rsils powering the tubes made me nervousas hell. 4000 was just too much to mess with straight off.
@Asmyldof Errr. What?
 
reverse leakage may not be consistent, creating a differential, for that purpose, many cases, one would place 100's of kOhm or several to dozens of MOhm in parallel with each, to catch the reverse leakage differentials
Of course, rated for the proper reverse voltage
Especially since the original was very old fashioned, the extra leakages from the resistors will likely only make a closer approximation of the stack's flaws
 
8:38 PM
One last question for buying a component for a project:
If the schematic calls for 50pF, what range of capacitors should I look at? Something like 5-50pF or 50 & up? (This is for 88-108 MHz.)
 
@AdamUraynar That seems to me to be a 50pF tunable cap, tunable components (variable resistor, variable inductor, variable capacitor) normally are indicated at their maximum value
 
thanks!
 
If you get a 56pF you should still be fine, as long as the schematic is right and correctly copied (i.e. set-up is similar etc)
Probably 47pF would still work too
Just changes the tuning range a bit
 
If you ever need an additional 1 to 5 pf, using 2 insulated wires twisted together works very well for a hobbyist fix.
 
Exactly that.
Which is also why having exactly 50pF isn't that important.
A change in a looping wire will already change it by a few pF
 
JRE
8:46 PM
@Asmyldof OK. What could happen if I don't add the resistors in parallel? Are we talking exploding diodes?
 
@JRE Potentially reverse breakdown over longer periods of use
+ whatever happens to the rest of the scope then
capacitors back-tanking, or becoming a high-voltage resistor at operational frequency
Not unlikely the original capacitor died due to diode failure, rather than the other way around
 
JRE
@Marla That was one of the things I found in the old D43. There was a pair of wires that were sticking up in the air. I panicked because I didn't know where they should go, then found a reference in the calibration notes to twiddling the wires to adjust something, and relaxed.
 
@JRE Yes, a fun thing to stumble across
first time you see that type of capacitor, you scratch your head and wonder, "who cut off these wires ? "
 
@Marla And what was connected to them? Why did it work without the missing part? Was the missing part hindring something? Is this a Philips Type Bodge?
 
JRE
@Asmyldof Now that may explain a lot. The first time it exploded 20 years ago, I just swapped out the whole board, and all was good. When I realized the diodes were bad this time, I tried swapping in the diodes from the previous board - no go.
Looks like I'll be ordering some 1M Resistors rated for a thousand volts.
 
8:51 PM
@JRE So, what you do is look at the datasheet for the specific 4000 diodes you used, look at the reverse leakage graphs and determine their delta. Add a resistor that handles double that, done
@JRE Or 300k ones rated for 250V
 
Or a "Magic | More Magic" switch
 
JRE
@Marla My thought was "Oh, crap. How did I break those two wires off, and where do they go?"
 
@W5VO Yes, where one end of the switch is connected to a capacitor, which is connected to nothing, and the other end to the floating case and the middle to an unknown part on the board
 
@Asmyldof something like that
 
@W5VO I can imagine a few RF/UHF circuits in which that switch would add great value
 
8:54 PM
I think the original story was a computer
 
@JRE Or 100k rated for 100V
Yeah, I remember the broad lines, but got bored by the contents, I guess, forgot the details
@JRE Also, did you use 4 1kV diodes for 4kV? I'd strongly suggest using 5, possibly 6
Better off having some margin left and right
Since the original should have had much worse forward characteristic anyway
 
JRE
I used 4* 1KV diodes for 3400VDC.
 
Hm, sounds fair.
Still, if you bought a strip of 100....
Specially if you bought 100 from Heinz-Johan around the corner with no datasheet
 
JRE
Ha. "Strip of 100." I panicked when I got to Conrad, and the computer said they only had 5 on hand. The salesman checked anyway, and they actually had a strip of 10.
 
There you go again... there;s two diodes that are in everything
Any self respecting shop (hint hint) has a minimum of 500 of each on stock at all times
On account of MRSP for either being sub-one-cent when bought at quantity
 
JRE
8:59 PM
So, I could add an extra diode to the strings I've already got installed.
 
Okay, 4007 isn't sub cent, but still:
Heck, if you're selling them at 25 cents a piece, no pain in buying 100's of these at once:
Bonus: Actual Datasheetness
 
downside: ordering from farnell
 
JRE
Yeah, but I can't drive to Farnell and pick them up. Overnight shipping ain't in it either.
 
@W5VO If I'd be running a shop, I'd sure as hell only order from Mouser, Farnell, Digikey and China-Mfg-Direct, but then, I'm not in it to become a billionaire over the backs of penny-rich hobbyists and kids
 
JRE
Assuming that this is the correct datasheet:
 
9:05 PM
Or in the most extreme case, the individual manufacturers, but if you have enough overhead for a shop, you have enough overhead to pay an accounted to sort out the invoice mess Farnell sends you
@JRE Did they tell you it's the Fairchild 1N4007?
 
JRE
What would I look for to determine the needed voltage rating for the parallel resistors.
 
@Asmyldof Dig on Farnell, not traceable sources
 
JRE
@Asmyldof Hell, no. I asked if they had parts from different manufacturers, and the answer was "yes, but they all get thrown in the one box anyway."
 
@W5VO I know what Farnell has and hasn't. But even given the time to wait for Mouser and the order size to get free shipping at Mouser, there's still plenty things that are easier, cheaper or more managable through Farnell. But you must always weigh the invoicing and overhead costs
@JRE There you go with Conrad's brilliant QA system. I really don't know how much harder the point needs to be made
 
sure, and Mouser/Digikey (when using inside the US) are >> Farnell/element14
 
9:08 PM
@W5VO Last I checked Germany wasn't inside the US though
 
@Asmyldof The evil empire is everywhere
 
@Marla Careful with your words. Your election is coming up yet.
I am mosquito Catcher Superieur tonight. Score is 6 with bare hands
 
@Asmyldof was referencing that US is empire. LOL
(or so some politicians imagine)
 
@Asmyldof No mosquitoes were hurt during writing of that post.
 
@Asmyldof Now try it using a solder sucker
 
9:14 PM
@Marla One must be aware that my desoldering device uses a steady -0.8bar vacuum, so I think it's quite doable
@NickAlexeev But only during
I wish Atmel allowed selecting and/or sorting devices by whether they have a Dead-Time generator on their PWM blocks
 
JRE
@Asmyldof No arguaments on Conrad's QA. They are just the closest shop I know of that I can get to (relatively) quickly in person.
 
Wouldn't know for Germany.
Though the disadvantage of "the Maker Movement" and "IoT for everyone" is that people learn that ordering from Ching Ho Peng to get Huang Hung Loh brand boards works fine, and stuff is wrong means ask on EE.SE until someone tells you what transistor to replace. Rather than known-sourcing things
So I can imagine actual shops dropping left and right
But in all fairness, since the mid 90's or some such, Conrad has sure as balls not helped in establishing that known-good is better than probably-okay
 
9:30 PM
fuzzy logic
 
Conrad is made for model trains
 
JRE
The only other close by shop that I knew of closed up some time ago. It was never open when I needed something, and then it just disapeared one day. There's some other shop where it used to be now.
@PlasmaHH They've sure got more of that kind of stuff than they have parts. The one in Mainz is pretty large, but they've downscaled all things "build it yourself." I actually considered buying a new scope rather than fixing my broken one, but they don't even have them in stock. If you want a scope from Conrad, you have to order it.
 
@JRE I wouldn't buy that either. You'll be back soon enough to buy parts to repair that, which are not available, having you buy yet another poopy-McBleh-brand scope
With the signal to noise and measurement accuracy of having your youngest nephew or niece draw what they think the signal could be like
 
JRE
Conrad adevertises scopes from "Voltcraft," sure. They also list some Rigols, though I don't know if you'd count tthat as better.
 
@JRE Sure as hell wouldn't count Voltcraft as a brand
Voltcraft stands for "The Craft of predicting the actual voltage present based on numbers on the display"
As far as my Keysight has been able to determine on my Father's "luxury" Voltcraft
 
JRE
9:38 PM
@Asmyldof That made me really laugh. I've got couple of nieces (and they've got daughters, too) and I can well imagine them (the daughters of hthe nieces) doing better than a Voltcraft.
 
I'm good at predicting
 
JRE
So, scope fixed, the project I was really working on continues tomorrow.
'Night all.
 
I'm quite annoyed at Atmel for not putting 50 cents worth (market value) of PWM function into a 70 cent Cotrex-M0+
Sleep Differentially
Though, this is a pretty decent attempt at leveraging ARM cores into the domain of affordable as shit:
 
9:54 PM
@JRE their scopes haven't improved since the 90s and the bandwidth is useless. Almost all voltcraft stuff is rebranded, so figure out what they copied badly. Plus the parts they have in stock are usually from the 90s too, very useful for parts that have shelf life. Dry popcorn guaranteed
And I find the diode functionality of my meters rather useless I have to admit
 
 
2 hours later…
11:40 PM
@PlasmaHH I do not
 

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