@crasic But it's rated for 260 peak during reflow

Yes, hence the concern becuase no obvious root cause

board house is hand checking every module before stuffing

I checked a tray myself and found none

Xrays done show no broken traces or otherwise

perhaps marginal solder joint = quick heating and failure at first power up

maybe they put down too much solder paste and shorted something out

I saw some voids in the pads that I pointed out to the fab guy

we peeled the part off and nothing on the board was shorted

solder paste as well may be to blame

@crasic did you have anyone xray the board?

Internally its a small switching regulator in a plastic package

yes

xrays done on about 10

they are gonna do the rest (100 or so) this week

looks like there is a small signal transformer or inductor in the package

I hate to bring this up, but could it be a board layout issue (or even a net connectivity)?

Unlikely since this has been in production for over a year

and no issues until this last batch on new tooling

np, I ask because I've seen things...

understandable, its definitely a fab or poluted stock issue

I'll ask them to look at the soldering

or rather solder paste

and until a root cause is found have them check for shorts before first power up

and see if any drop out after

Are you able to rework them? (it looks like a nasty package)

They are getting a nice rework heater that will heat from both sides and clamp the package

should be reworkable

@crasic Looks unpleasant - most adventurous I've done is QFN with a thermal pad

Yeah, glad I'm not the one doing it

Taking it off with a regular rework hot air gun was fairly destructive

blew off some of the surrounding 0402's :)

Its basically a chip scale switcher potted in plastic

that package is impressive but rework is basically impossible

The backheated rework station can also do our bga arm, which itself would be awesome

thanks for letting me bounce my thinking, I have some stuff to go on now

Clamping an IC down during resoldering? Wouldn't that squeeze the solder everywhere and create shorts?

@Passerby it doesn't clamp down as much as clamp on

@crasic but at that size, a fraction of a millimeter of pressure seems like it would cause the self correcting nature of smd reflow to stop working. Then again I only have hand soldering experience. Interesting. Any links to how these clamps work/look like?

I'll ping you when you we get it. However it's not reflow but desoldering. Rework Reflow will go through oven or heating through backside

The plastic on this thing charred badly well before solder melted. Ok for destructive testing but not production rework

With an air heater that is

hm... fuses with blue wires..

@PlasmaHH ?

@Asmyldof dunno about nl code, but blue is neutral here

@PlasmaHH Ah, those fuses. Fun!

Where?

in a house that I was looking at that is on the list of candidates to buy

hrrrr

track&trace for the package isn't working

:-|

@PlasmaHH wrt the code, we do use Blue - Neutral; Yel/Green - Earth; Brown - Phase now

Used to be... red, black, blue I think

or red black white?

I think they're Frenchyfoofoo colours

I think the pre 60s code here was red black gray or so

you use brown for 3 phase phases too?

Ehhhh

Usually, if I'm saying this right, Black, Brown, Grey bundled

I think thats some EU standard that everyone is supposed to use these days...

With today's colour availability I'd have liked to see a colour scheme for phases throughout. Or at least that being alowed

Like switch wires being white with the band of their phase or something and then everything in the building being either black, grey or brown

Of course, that's nearly never useful to normal people

when looking at some houses/apartments electric installations you see interesting stuff... especially when the house was build before the great war...

But it would allow me to use 3 phase in the storage by making an agreement with neighbours

I suppose I can ask 10 neighbours for a wire and spend half an hour with a scope....

besides that I stil have to figure out why on that one house they had three instead of the usual two fuses in series for the whole building, I wonder why they had different fuses for the different phases ... two 63A and one 80something A

three in series?

As in a cascaded split, or just two hard in series?

just hard in series

weird

indeed

you dont have three phase for your apartment?

Maybe one is the municipal fuse with the tamper tag and the other is slightly lower because they had issues?

Nope

I can get it, but costs and then I am not allowed to route it downward anyway

And I'm not going to put a laser cutter in my halway

initial setup costs or per month?

hallway*

Both

oh intresting, here it doesnt matter for the per month what you have

If it were useful to have upstairs I wouldn't care, but I want it downstairs, and I can't get it there, because that's not a valid address on its own

And the tube going down from the house is a standard 15mm, so I'm not going to cram 3x32 down that

a few years ago the people a few houses down the street (they are copypasta houses, like 20 look alike) renovated their stairway and rerouted all power so that now the meters are all in one room in the basement and everyone has the ability to get three phase in their basement rooms.

in most areas its relatively uncommon to not have three phase (and for single houses it is virtually unheard of)

Another reason to regularly ponder moving slightly across the border :-

:-)

Copy pasta lol. Here they are called cookie cutter

We call it koppie-pasta/copypasta too

I still have on my list to ask them about what it would cost to be able to draw more than 64kVA ....

I'm planning on either moving to a fixer-upper or a piece of land, where in both cases a demand is being able to (re-)do the electrics exactly as I want them.

3x64 is the absolute minimum for that

Possibly 3x64+3x32

Haven't done the maths yet

buttt, if Germany makes it easy enough they may entice me with 3x64+3x32+3x32

why not 3x120?

I'll be packing up my shit tomorrow :-)

Because I want them to be responsible for split-fusing

offloading the responsibility

Although, that may be my Dutch standard reaction, dunno how rules are in Germany about primary fusing

Here it's too much of a hassle when there's a hiccup to have the main one replaced and I don't want to stock 100 candles for the wait time

So it's not uncommon to have 3x64 for machinery and 3x32 for everything else, because then it's okay-ish to wait for 3 hours

there are so many regulations and changes in regulation that I really hav no idea how it is currently...

:-)

but at the place where I grew up, they owned some pairs of 100A fuses (in a sealed box) and we owned the pairs of 63A fuses after them (before the meter) and I can never think of any occasion where the 100A ones blew

I have managed to blow a municipal fuse, the one where all the groups join at, say 60A rated or whatever

Matter of washer+dryer+welding+general-house-stuff

so your fuses were too slow or werent capable of interrupting the high currents?

Fuse was too slow to catch the weld spike, I think and then the total on the central one peaked over

But that is in the traditional 1phase situation

I might be overthinking it for 3x120

:-)

hm, fun stuff, they have lists of things that you want to connect and what to do... heater >4.6kW : three phase mandatory....

or like you have to talk to them if you allowed to connect a copier with three phase connection when over 4kVA

Yeah, I want 3 phase, for sure. I'm going to be experimenting with high grade climate control and such in a small space, so if the heat capacity in the heat well isn't sufficient I'll need additional powerrrrr

Ah in that way

Yeah, most stuff beyond 3kVA is built for balanced anyway, as far as I know

Only thing at 4kVA potentially is the old welding transformer I used in the example above

hm, for those you seem to need at least a power factor of .7 when over 2kVA but it might be possible to talk to them about it

hm, they have special considerations for MRTs and stuff like that, you have to request the documents :/

hm, you may not have motors that draw more than 60A at start per phase unless you get a permit

ah and it looks like you can get an agreement on power consumption, caused voltage drop and power factor, and then connect anything you want as long as it stays within these parameters.

I think that's similar-ish once you have the 3phase here

I like how Dave is waging a soft-fued with the Batteriser people

its hilarious how they commented on the live xcarver video on this thing (dave popped up from the right talking about how he just builds the test setup)

I am sure the batterizer would be useful for me in this thing: bilder.preistaktik.de/Artikelbilder1/110135.jpg

I haven't had time to watch the last two live build records, but I did see it in the title

@PlasmaHH Yeah.... No.

a little meta rant from me, that should be a good end for this day, going home, seeya much later girls

Hello, I have a little question :

How could I make a circuit where whenever a push button is pressed, the output would be a single pulse ? The pulses duration has to always be the same regardless of how long the button is held down. What would be the simplest way of doing this (ideally only using passive components, so no 555 timers) ?

@LiamF-A You are going to need at least a hand full of transistors, so only passives is an absolute no go for that

Alright , thanks

@LiamF-A Which then brings me to cheapest in total (board space, component cost, etc) being a small microcontroller, closely followed by either a 555 or a cheap comparator chip

@LiamF-A, @Asmyldof, SN74LVC1G123 is probably cheaper than any but the absolute cheapest uC. But if the pulse time is over 100 ms, I'd probably go with the uC also.

@Asmyldof As is increasingly usual, the answer to this small project is "use an arduino"