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12:44 AM
@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Yes, that's the technique I'm trying to use, but even the tack welds were being very difficult. I'm really hoping the issue was the grounding, I remade the connection on the cable and tomorrow I'll clear the clamp and attach it to the cable and maybe run a test again
Crossing fingers it will run a lot better, because I already played with the angle grinder on the other side of the roof, so next step on the repair is welding again haha
Someone mentioned that maybe my wire could be contaminated from humidity, and it's really possible, since it even built a little rust on some parts. But if I go for replacing the wire I'll probably want to clean or replace the liner too, because it ran with this slightly rusted wire so it could be dirty inside
But maybe the improved grounding will be enough
 
 
14 hours later…
2:58 PM
@IanC - If you're burning through on those but welds, you're holding it too long. These are nothing more than short bursts. And if you have the ability with your welder, turn down the amperage, which will help.
You are just trying to hit the weld long enough to stick the two parts together ... nothing more. If there's already a gap there, then it is problematic. You need a butt joint to actually butt up against one another (ie: touching).
You can still weld a gap, but it is much harder to do so and a lot easier to burn through.
 
 
3 hours later…
6:20 PM
@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 I think part of the problem was the gaps then, some parts didn't have a perfect fit, But I'm trying to do a better job on the preparation part for this second area of the repair. Was trying my best to sand the corrosion from the under parts, applied rust convertor, and tomorrow I plan to spray primer on them before welding the new parts on top
Btw, I wanted an opinion on something. After I finish those repairs, I'll need to prepare the edges to glue the new windshield on. Should I grind the whole edge to metal, apply rust converter, then primer and paint? Or you think I should somehow try to not sand down the primer and paint that is already in place?
I'm worried that by sanding and repainting the whole edge surface I might be replacing good primer (maybe even original sheet treatment) on parts that weren't touched so far, and my priming/painting might be of lower quality, so I could try to just remove the old urethane without scratching much of the paint and then just primer/paint the areas that I grinded. Maybe even throwing a coat on top of the paint already in place
 

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