@Criggie i forgot what's the app with the visited map boxes that gets one's data via Strava api?

Stats hunters statshunters.com/heatmap/tiles?types=Ride

@Renaud I dunno - I thought I bring a lot of BS to the table already :-)))

I'd like to try and mount my tail light at the kickstand mount (with no kickstand present). The mount as a M6 hole. The light has a hole for M3 but without threads. Perhaps using a dual-ended bolt like this:

Provided I can find one in M3/M6. Most of these don't appear to have the "wall" in the middle. But how to torque it such that it is locked? Nuts on both ends?

Yeah that'd work

or you could use a M6 nut and bolt, then drill and tap a M3 thread into the middle of the head

Or drill out the hole in the light so it takes a M6 bolt clearance

@Criggie Interesting idea. There are helicoil-like adapters but without a head they can't be tightened

@Criggie The light is too small for that 😉

@Criggie Okay then I'll try to find an adapter like that

That's just a mockup of what I meant

I doubt a printed one would work very well

ooh thanks! Yeah I see. Pretty good idea. It has to hold a weight of 20g so doesn't have to be super sturdy ;-)

mmmm for that maybe plastic would do. Drill the M3 hole all the way, use a longer m3 bolt and you're good.

Thanks I'll think about it. Would look pretty clean ;-)

yeah 3d printing can be awesome

tinkercad.com/things/…

@Erlkoenig tail light at kickstand height? Isn’t that way too low?

of course still much better than nothing if you can’t mount it higher

@Michael It's not great, but if there is luggage on the rack the light won't be obstructed at that location. I'll also try putting it on the rack if possible

on the rack would be better or high enough on the seatpost to be above the luggage (my solution)

I usually have it on the seatpost but that won't work with luggage

I'll try putting it on the rearward-most hoop of the rack

But the kickstand solution would sure look nice and clean :)

form follows function :p

There are grub screws with a concentric, tapped, bore.

Criggie would just 3D print the M6 screw

@gschenk But a grub screw won't tighten if the hole is open on both ends...?

Loctite

or just use a long M3 bolt through the M6 hole with wide washers and nuts on both ends?

It'd be a lot easier to fabricate a 6mm OD, 3mm ID cylindrical washer than trying to 3D print a bolt.

depends on your equipment :D

I've just opened the lock ring on my front wheel.

4 Mm ago iclosed it with 40 Nm.

Opened it today with a hand tool with a short slim lever. Judging from the absence of pain I expect no more than 20 Nm, maybe less

@gschenk opening well greased screws is usually not that hard, especially when they don’t use this rough washer thing the cassette lockrings use

It has the thin spring steel washer.

Bib shorts on recumbent are not required at all, and are a slight disadvantage

just saying

Its my anniversary, so I totally had to ride the `bent

injury anniversary?

has it been that long?

yeah - time flies.

why do you say that bib shorts are a disadvantage?

and are you back to 100%?

mmm chafing :) there's no saddle nose between your legs so the fit is a bit different

mhhhh, get ones without padding?

yeah - they're called trousers.

I’d very much love bib tights with only thin padding :(

but the only ones I can find are for triathlon and don’t have straps

yeah they're hard to shop for

I got one set out of aliexpress that are awesome fit and comfort, but they're fading off, becoming translucent.

I have to order new ones as well, the expensive Assos one was a disappointment

yeah price is no guarantee. I've got less to loose with a $20 set over a $400 set.

and I don't mind hacking into a cheap set to tailor the fit some

and I think I’ll get a 13l Ortlieb saddle bag for credit card tours on the road bike

@gschenk maybe your hand/arm has strengthened since last time

or you don't remember 4Mm in the past as well as you think you do :D

Or its loosened over time

40 Nm is a lot. We used a very long spanner and spring spring scale. Awkward contraption took three people. But we were interested how much 40 Nm actually is.

@Criggie well, I had inexplicable brake rattle.

I tried different pads, tightened caliper, tightened axle. Only thing I haven't (couldn't) tighten since then was the centre lock lock ring.

@Michael I went to stores and fingered chamois of different brands. Decathlon 900 was one of the better. However, only in one pair of bibs. A second one of same model was thicker and more squishy.

Fair enough - yeah I yank it tight but not hammer tight. My chain whip is janky :)

I will tighten the lock ring as hard as I can with my adjustable spanner. That will be well below 40 Nm. And I'll add a 2 Mm maintenance interval to the hub for re-tightening.

I suspect my brake rattle was due to insufficient centre lock tightness.

On another note: DT Swiss end-cap removal is easy. End caps are so precisely made it's a joy. The simple seal is pretty good. Next to no dirt on the outside of bearings after about 2 Mm gravel.