@ScientistSmithYT Schottky diodes in general have a lower forward voltage than silicon diodes. Schottky diodes in general switch faster than silicon diodes. Since high forward voltage and slow switching both cause losses in switching power supplies, Schottky diodes are used to make those power supplies more efficient.

@Abcd post it as a question on the site (not here in the chat)

Or at least show the steps you did to for your nodal analysis.

I'm a bit confused on why you shorted the 4 ohm

I don't see a need to do superposition.

@Abcd Looking at it again, doing KCL doesn't mean the 4 ohm is shorted. It just means the current takes the place of (V4)/4. Idk. Maybe my interpretation of KCL is wrong. Either way, too few equations are present to see where it goes awry...

@JRE I have more questions about my bike set up and what components I'm looking at. I'm going to an appointment soon so I should have everything posted before 1 in the after noon my time. Its 10:25 A.M my time right now. But for right now I'll give you the components I'm looking at.

"SHINESTAR 1500w 30A DC-DC Boost Converter with Cooling Fan, DC 10V-60V to DC 12V-90V CC CV Adjustable Step-up Power Module" This is the DC-DC boost converter I'm looking at on Amazon. I was then thinking on powering it with a 44 volt supply input with the mAh array I already talked about. I've decided to go the 18650 battery route. It won't weigh as much and with the configuration I figured out it won't take up much space.

The other reason why I am going the 18650 battery route is because they are more durable in hot and cold conditions than battery packs. If something goes wrong with a battery pack. I'll have to replace the whole thing. With the 18650's they are more durable and if 1 does go bad its cheaper and easier to replace and pinpoint.

Sounds like a fun project, good luck!

@ScientistSmithYT Go for it. I think you'll regret trying to put that much (useless) light on a bicycle. I think you'll find problems stacking your cells together, and problems with the wiring at low voltage but high current. I also think you need to hit those problems full on. There's often good reasons why nobody else does something that you think is easy.

amazon.com/ask/questions/TxOVALZZAO2F70/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza

"Battery Charger - where is the charger getting power from does it have to be plugged in?"

Reply: "Place the plug in your mouth and rub your hands together while rubbing your feet on the carpet extremely fast and only then will it charge your battery."

@JRE Okay.

@adamaero Love it :)

@W5VO I guess according to you guys I need the luck. So I'll take it.

@JRE Lets say I want to go the battery pack route. And not use 18650's. I need small battery packs weighing less than 10 pounds all together. Where would I buy the battery packs? And by packs I mean more than 1 giant one.

@ScientistSmithYT Something can always go wrong with everything. From that perspective, everyone can benefit from a bit of good luck.

I didn't mean it sarcastically if that's what you were thinking

@Oh ok, I thought you were saying it sarcastically. Sorry, I misunderstood. And yes actually I could use some good luck. Because I'm ordering $120 worth of products right now and getting them on Wednesday. Then if everything goes right I'll have it to go camping on Friday. My personal due date is Friday at 6 in the morning.

@W5VO I messed around with the formula a little bit and I think I found a great combination that I need. I put in 1,258 watts of power then I should get 1,500 or so more out in an equal (or close to amount of energy put in). If the energy transformation stays the same or close to the same level it will make it much easier for me. So I put in 34,000 mAh at 37 volts DC.

@W5VO One time I wanted to make a 900,000 mAh medical briefcase battery to charge a Tesla. Or any other device that you'd normally want to charge. Including but not limited to your cell phones, iPad, laptop, or other batteries used to charge your phone or device, and Bluetooth speakers.

@ScientistSmithYT You won't get more energy out than you put in

@W5VO Yes, this is why I said an equal or less than.

I can save you the optimism, it will be less

And actually I just received my new audio amplifier. Its a class D if I remember right. I kind of have an idea as to what went wrong in my other audio amplifier circuit. Its charged to 89.9 mV on the input and. But ill figure that out later.

Yes, that is true.

A while ago I proposed my final project idea. And now I'm making steps to get to that final product. (I'm talking about the lights on my bike idea) I eventually want it to be able to run for 6 hours on 4 100 watt COB lights. But I've bought two for right now. And then I'll work with what I've got and try everything to make it better.

@W5VO as of right now I am not entirely sure what the problem could be on my audio amplifier. But I'll send a picture of the problem area and what is doing what. My guess is that you'll know.

One sec. I'm uploading it now.

@ScientistSmithYT No idea, unless your picture includes craters or voltage readings

It includes 1 voltage reading. The input is 14-32 VDC. Output is 100 watts on each end with a total of 200 watts output.

The 0.25 volts from L+ to VCC is the problem. There isnt supposed to be a voltage there.

So usually Class D amplifiers require a load (the speaker) to work, from what I've seen

and measuring voltages to VSS/GND is a lot of times more useful

The 14-32 VDC is the input for the 18650 battery pack. I put in 14.8 VDC normal and it started at 17.6 VDC

It was loaded but now it won't output anything. Let me explain what happened.

I went to grab the aux input (I connected the aux cord to the VGA cord)(I believe its called a VGA) then I heard a spark. It turns out I discharged myself to the input of the audio portion. Ever since then it doesn't work.

User-safe ESD is easily omitted on the cheap chinese blocks

I've grabed the aux many times as the way I did before. Its just this time I had a charge, then discharged it through the input for the audio.

So it sounds like you killed it

Yup

What can I do or get to stop that from happening to my new audio amplifier? Its the same brand, type and everything.

So now you know there isn't robust ESD protection on the input.

So then what do I do to make it so there is?

An ESD or TVS diode would be a good start, try googling "audio esd protection"

Sorry for not responding. I was ordering my items for my bike. They are all coming on Wednesday. So far its perfect.

Ok, I'll do that.

I watched a video on it. And it said a lot of things I don't understand like, what does the running output voltage, and the running input voltage have to do with the 15 kV diode being placed connected to the ground before the input?