Photography Chat

AJ Henderson

1:09 AM

@Boris_yo depends on the quality of the lights

you'll lose a little bit more power with two diffusers, but stacking them isn't neccessarily a bad thing either

@web-tiki masking

would be one possible term

extraction is another

Michael Clark

4:57 AM

@AJHenderson I've got friends that check their pelican cases every time they fly. They're way too large for carry on. They usually carry a small bag with a couple of bodies and a few lenses, but it is kinda' difficult to fit a 600 f/4 or a video tripod into carry on.

AJ Henderson

5:24 AM

@MichaelClark true, I guess maybe you have to ask the right people or use the right airlines

though I've seen photos of people bringing the 600 f/4s in the cabin before as special cargo

Michael Clark

And then there is this:

http://lifehacker.com/5448014/pack-a-gun-to-protect-valuables-from-airline-theft-or-loss

Boris_yo

6:06 AM

Lights I think are - 160 LEDs is 5600K and 126 LEDs is 5400K

200K difference is noticeable?

But my question was meant more for knowing whether shooting in the day or evening makes difference. The ceiling has 2 long halogen cool daylight bulbs.

web-tiki

8:42 AM

thx @AJHenderson

Stack Exchange

1:20 PM

0

Q: Reopen question about DSLR video rail systems

The question What are _rods_ / _rails_ for? was closed as a duplicate of What is a focusing rail?. Since the former is about rail systems used to mount additional equipment (e.g. pull focus system, matte box, monitor, etc.) used in video shooting and the latter is about focusing rails used in mac...

AJ Henderson

2:44 PM

@MichaelClark that is freaking brilliant

@Boris_yo yes, a 200k difference will probably be noticeable, but not necessarily so noticeable as to be a problem. Sometimes a slight color cast can work in your advantage depending on what you are photographing

as for day vs night, it's simply a trade off. Either you are shooting in the day and using window light as part of your lighting. The sun is about 5800k but varies based on conditions (from around 5500 to 6000, or even as low as 5000k at the horizon). Depending on color temp, you might need to use some additional filters to adjust light temperatures shooting with daylight as well. Also, it may be overpowering relative to your light sources

night time gives you greater control, but less overall light

there isn't a right or wrong answer

try both, shoot with what you like/works best for you

Boris_yo

@AJHenderson I don't understand my logic behind buying lesser video light temperature than one with 200K more but it's probably because I haven't paid enough attention to this parameter. I wanted video light that would not suck too much power from AA batteries but how noticeable really is difference between 160 LEDs and 126 from power saving perspective?

Outofmemory

Hi

AJ Henderson

@Boris_yo depends on the power requirement of the LEDs, the 126 could use more

@Outofmemory hi

Boris_yo

3:07 PM

@AJHenderson I have used video light which gave enough or more than that for better exposure of item but I picture came out blurry. I shot with 64 ISO and always thought that blurry picture is because of not enough light. I standed still and even held my breath but still picture came out blurry. How so?

AJ Henderson

probably not enough light

what was the shutter speed?

Boris_yo

@AJHenderson I don't have control for that. If I remember correctly 3.7 or 5.7 ...

No... It was FOV

Field of view... How is it called...

IRIS?

AJ Henderson

it sounds like you are describing aperture

or possibly focal length

hard to say with a P&S

Boris_yo

3:24 PM

@AJHenderson Aperture and focal length are not same? Anyway I think it's aperture.

It's F-stop

3.7 or 5.7

AJ Henderson

no, they are not, aperture is f-stop, focal length is a mm measurement

and I need shutter speed, which is 1/something

Boris_yo

@AJHenderson Here ^

AJ Henderson

yeah, definitely not enough light

way WAY not enough light

but ISO 64 is also ridiculously slow setting

ISO 100 or 200 is normally considered the base daylight setting

and for hand held shooting, you need to be shooting around 1/5* the effective focal length and you aren't even shooting 1/5* the actual focal length

I would have trouble shooting at 1/10 without blur even at relatively short focal lengths and I'm a trained marksman who knows how to steady my body very well. I'm not sure what 6mm works out to as an apparent focal length (the focal length with crop factor applied to map it to a 35mm sensor size) but you need either more light or higher ISO

oh wait, there it is 35mm is the focal length on 35mm

in that case, I'd be okay at 1/30 or so, but 1/10 would still be hard. I can do about 1/focal length, maybe 1/ 1/2 focal length if I'm on a good day without too much blur

but that's with a lot of training that I assume you probably don't have on how to do bone on bone support and breathing techniques and muscle control techniques and such

AJ Henderson

4:18 PM

oh sweet.... just found out there is finally a lossless streaming music service

about freaking time

Boris_yo

7:36 PM

@AJHenderson That's probably unique to my old camera. I doubt modern cameras have less than 100 ISO. Shutter speed 1/10 is only good when there is really abundance of light present while 1/100 is good if not? I heard that shutter must delayed in order to catch as much light as possible... so in my case the light was from side but not above. Maybe it helped if I showed you sensor graph but I did not take shot with smartphone camera of it.

AJ Henderson

@Boris_yo shutter speed is related to how long the shutter remains open. 1/10 means it stays open 1/10 of a second to let in lots of light

more light means lower (faster) shutter speed. ie, 1/100 is lower/faster than 1/10

so 1/100 requires more light than 1/10

and the ISO 100 standard goes to the film days when ISO 100 film was considered pretty standard for daylight shooting

there are often lower ISOs available, though they are often faking it a bit (expanded ISO)

for example, my 5D mark iii actually goes to ISO 50, but the base ISO is 100

either way, ISO 64 is ridiculously low ISO. You should try uping the ISO a bit

but yes, for a set ISO and aperture, the shutter must stay open a certain amount of time to be able to get enough light

though shutter delay is something different entirely

delay is the time from when you try to take the photo (pushing the shutter release) and when the photo is actually taken

and is unrelated to exposure

Boris_yo

8:11 PM

@AJHenderson It impacts blurriness? Because in that time you could move or not hold breath good enough etc.?

You said there was ridiculously low light and even 1/10 shutter speed didn't help it?

Do you think exposure would help it? I have +0.3, 0.7, 1

AJ Henderson

@Boris_yo no, only shutter speed impacts bluriness

delay only impacts if the photo occurs when you want to

for example, if you had a fast shutter and a long delay and you tried to take a picture of someone jumping, you'd get a clear photo of them standing on the ground

if you have a slow shutter and a short delay, then you'd have a blurry photo of someone jumping because it would take the photo right away, but the shutter would be open exposing the image for too long

@Boris_yo - I think you need to read up a bit more on the exposure triangle

either we are having a serious language barrier or your understanding of exposure is very fundamentally wrong somewhere

but I'm not sure where

for a photo to come out, it needs enough light to hit the sensor. You can adjust the amount of light hitting the sensor/the amount of light needed in 3 ways

you can adjust ISO (sensitivity). Low ISO (64 or even 100) will make the image very dark, but very little noise. High ISOs will make the sensor very sensitive (need less light) but will have more noise in images

shutter speed determines how long the camera collects light for

the longer it is open, the more light the camera gathers, but the more blur there is from either the camera or subject moving

it is measured as the amount of seconds that the shutter is open

so 1/10 lets in more light than 1/100

but has more issues with blurring

and then there is aperture, which is how big the opening light is let in through

the wider the aperture (smaller f/ number), the more light is let in, but the shallower the depth of field (how much of the image is in focus)

the narrower the aperture (larger f/ number) the less light is let in, but the wider the depth of field (larger range of distances from the camera are in focus) but also quality will eventually suffer from something called difraction limiting, which reduces overall sharpness at high apertures

exposure compensation doesn't do anything by itself, it just tells the camera that it should adjust how much light it thinks it needs

which just impacts how the camera chooses ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture

Stack Exchange

8:36 PM

0

Q: Why did this question get upvotes?

This question is, by our standards, a pretty poor question - it doesn't contain nearly enough detail for us to work out the answer, and despite some polite prompting, the poster hasn't added an example. The question has now (quite rightly IMO) been closed as unclear. Yet this question got four u...

discussion questions up-votes

Boris_yo

8:50 PM

Thanks I will save this information.

High apertures or high F/ stops you meant in this sentence?

AJ Henderson

f/stop is aperture

well f/

an f-stop is simply a measure of how much change in f/ is required to double the light

there are stop of ISO and shutter as well

so saying something is 2 f-stops faster means that the shutter opens up enough to let in 4 times as much light

Boris_yo

9:12 PM

Got it! Do you think this is good way to learn photography? trickphotographybook.com

AJ Henderson

no idea

I learned by working with people who knew photography

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